Marushin M16 Series... Shooting Impressions

Hiya shazhib,

Ah, I see, was the zinc alloy bolt too heavy to perform properly I wonder?
I don't have enough knowledge of modelguns as I only "discovered" them about 3 years ago.
It would be great to find out how to make Marushins M16's fire FullAuto properly wouldn't it?
If fast trigger pulling in Semi works ok I'll bet the bolt's travelling too fast or something simple like that!

Cerwyn
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Post by shazhib

That's rights.
I used to own old XM177 with zinc bolt. I "sand & smoth" around the bolt, inside upper receiver, checked any interferece by an ejector, however, barely blow back only with single 7mm. Heard lot of guy had a same problem.

I don't have any of Marushin's M16 series now, so cannot comment really, but if you can succeeded conseuquitive 10 semi rounds but, full auto, then, I would guess a hammer may hit a bolt bottom before it closed fully, a common problem with MGC M16.

regards,

I'm sure Mark has commented on the hammer and bolt timing causing problems as you mentioned shazhib.
I must admit I don't fully understand how to cure the problem though!

Have you, or anyone else out there, any known fixes for this please?

Cerwyn
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Post by Phil_D

I have been playing with mine on and off whilst i wait for new parts, the bolt, firing pin etc are very sensitive as little as bringing the firing pin 1mm closer (to get better ejection) will result in full auto firing, and this is perfect full auto with no jams

Next adjustment is to put the pin back and bring the extracter out a bit as this was one of the problems mine had. In fact mine had everything wrong with it as the chap who did the XM 177 review here.

Will just have to keep trying to find a solution/adjustment or replacement part that works without getting damaged.
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Hiya Phil,

Thanks for your response mate
When you mention bringing the firing pin out 1mm, are you talking about the Detonator/Firing pin in the barrel?
This is a relatively easy fix and if it makes that much difference it's got to be worth a go?

There's no clearance problem is there once the cartridge base and cap hits the detonator pin at one end and the bolts' firing pin through to the hammer when it clouts the other end?

Cerwyn
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Post by MT01

Hi all,

I also experimented by bringing the detonator pin in the chamber out my 1 mm or so (using a small washer behind the pin).

What I noticed was that the chamber pin must already be pushing the cap pretty close to the catridge's pin - because I ended up getting a lot of slam fires.
i.e. when the bolt closes forward, instead of leaving a gap for the hammer to take the catridge the rest of the way, the bolt actually causes the detonation. Thus even in semi auto mode, my XM177 went full auto just like an open bolt weapon - only I had to wait until it stopped by itself or jammed!

Post by Phil_D


yes thats what i got too, full auto as MT01 says it "slam" fires.

Due to the wear on the bolt and the extractor pushing back in its housing the rifle would shoot but jam on ejection as the claw would not hook onto the cartridge to pull it back.

I have still got some work to do to get it just right but its great fun trying!
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Post by 8ace

I'd like to investigate a bolt conversion for the M16.

See thread
http://www.mp40modelguns.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=1804

Post by Phil_D

Good idea 8ace , i *think* i have fixed mine now, firing and ejection have been ok but i am having feed problems due to a broken magazine (all the spot welds popped open when i dropped it so its wrapped in duck tape!

It seems that the review on Arnies has gone now but picture the bolt and the worn slot that holds the extractor. What i did was to cut a slot across the bolt and inserted a piece of 1mm steel and then filed it down again, this moved the extractor forward again into the right postition, it also should resist wear more than the softer alloy.

I also read somewhere that a softer hammer spring will help.

Hope the above makes sense, i thought i had saved the pictures somewhere but cant remember which machine i did it on
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Post by MT01

Wow, now that sounds like a challenging project - the M16 bolt face is a pretty complex shape?

Afraid I only have one Marushin XM177 and I love it to bits even if it is inconsistent in firing. I have a gut feeling that some firing problems might also be caused by mishapen or incorrectly seated ejector spike inside the receiver - when messing about with this, it had quite a big impact on the friction experienced by the bolt assembly.

If you do get this licked though and sort out its reliability problems, I think quite a few of us will be eternally gratefull!

Post by Phobus

Thanks for that Cerwyn ,

The 10 shot burst was indeed full -auto .

I could hardly believe it after not using it for several weeks ! and the best I got previous was about 3 before I got a jam - expelled case getting caught in the closing bolt !!

I think that it needed a good clean / lube plus the extra efficiency of getting the caps in precisely with the loading tool did it . ..? ..

What amazes me about this gun is the ROF . Try to get one off on full - auto and you are unlikely to get less than 3 !! I would imagine if the real steel is the same that this caused a few problems in the field .

Now if I could only get those handguards to go on properly ....

Regards Carl.
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Hiya Carl,

Sounds like your care and attention to detail is paying off mate, well done!

As a matter of interest, if you want to compare ROF of a real M16 to the model, take a look at www.youtube.com enter M16A1 in the search box and scroll through the selection of video clips.
There's a Japanese site that does really good vids of all manner of assault rifles, SMG's, you name it it's there.

I'd like to get mine sorted now!

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by Phil_D

FYI chaps

Phil_D wrote:

I also read somewhere that a softer hammer spring will help.

I have just received a new XM177 kit fron Shazhib (great service BTW) and it does now have a weaker hammer spring than the older one's.

Post by 8ace

Quote :

I also read somewhere that a softer hammer spring will help.

I think it's a double edged sword
Yes the hammer pressure is less making it easier for the bolt to slide back but I found that it started to miss fire (I put down to lack of spring force) which is exaggerated by worn cartridges.

Post by Madmike

I go with that! I found my hammer spring sometimes too weak to hit the carts with the proper amount of force.
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