Re-Bluing my Shotgun

Post by GZ22

I tried to blue my HW 'New MGC' Remington M31 RS2 - I tried using both Aluminium/Zinc bluing solution and Steel bluing gel - both of them didn't take to it at all - I thought that it might have due to the metal content in it, but alas, no. I stripped the wood foregrip and stained it walnut, then varnished it with a high gloss, and sprayed it with a metal-protecting finish. Finally, I oiled it with a light mineral oil to give it that 'blued steel' look, before fitting a genuine ATI Pistol Grip to it.

Here are the pics - sorry they're not that good (damn low energy lightbulbs in the house)!

Post by MadMike

It is hard to tell by the pics, but I really like the finish I can see! Great work!
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"It's a hardball world, son. We've gotta keep our heads until this peace craze blows over."

That certainly does look nice!

That walnut finish looks really well too.

As a matter of interest, would you have any "Before" pictures to compare finishes?

I'm considering Bluing parts of my metal UZI so a comparison would be really useful

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by GZ22

Thanks guys!

I ordered the replacement body from Francky - it's made by the 'New MGC' and is very dull in finish and somewhat grey. It's still ABS, but with added metal for the HW. Here's the picture of the exact one I bought from him before I refinished it:



I sprayed it with Plasti-Kote Industrial Rust Not, £7.99 from Halfords, and then oiled it with light mineral oil. (I know it's plastic but the finish is fantastic)!

Post by GZ22

As regards to bluing, I recently re-blued a zinc Browning, with mixed results. I used Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black, and it takes to it really well, as long as you meticulously strip the existing finish. I did that very easily with Birchwood Casey Blue Remover, and also used Birchwood Casey Degreaser - even the slightest bit of grease or oil from your skin will stop the bluing from taking in that spot, so I used heavy duty rubber gloves, and goggles, and I should have used a respirator as the fumes from the remover made me ill for days afterwards, and lots and lots of steel wool. The blue remover is very nasty stuff, and also the bluing solution is toxic! I stripped and blued it a total of 5 times as I wasn't happy with it, and I'm still not to be honest but I can't be bothered to do it all again!

Note: Despite all my references to their products, I do NOT work for Birchwood Casey

Just how safe is this Bluing material? If the fumes from the Remover made you ill for days and the Bluing solution is Toxic is it really safe to use at home?

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by GZ22

Oh, it's perfectly safe to use at home, just as long as you wear gloves, cover your eyes and wear a disposable respirator (only neccesary if you use the remover) else have good ventilation and all is well. Also don't do it in your kitchen or near food prep areas. The bottles will tell you that the stuff is toxic and it is, but only if you absorb it into your body through the skin, or by inhaling a large amount of vapour (which won't happen with good ventilation) - just always makes sense to take the relevant precautions.

OK, thanks for that! I guess I'm a little overcautious, a good mate of mine received a terminal dose of toxic chemicals through his skin at work.

I would like to refinish my all metal UZI by bluing and painting so the thought of poisoning myself made me twitch a bit!

But if the stuff's safe taking the right precautions then that's ok then

As a matter of interest, does the Plasti-Kote work on metal too?

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by GZ22

Yes, in fact, that's exactly what it's intended use is. Plasti-Kote is just the brand name. The paint itself is Industrial Rust-Not, and is meant for use on metal where a high degree of protection is required. If you're going to use it on your UZI though, I'd recommend stripping it all back and using the appropriate primer first. Seeing as it's Zinc I could recommend Hammerite Special Metals Primer, it's the colour of Red Oxide, is water based, and should take Rust Not easily. Only thing with painting though is that with each coat it covers up fine detail like trades etc. One of the forum members here recommended the Black-It system, and though I've never used it, it is about £30+ but you get WAY more fluid than you do when you pay £5+ for those little (90ml) Birchwood Casey bottles. That way you can immerse the parts in the solution and get a good, even coverage.

http://www.black-it.co.uk/index.html

Thanks very much for all the info

Much appreciated as always. I think I'll wait till 8ace puts his Bluing guide on here. Although the basics sound straightforward enough I'd like to see a Step by Step guide too. After all I'll be asking my better half to do the work so the more instructions the better!

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by Spencerman

My only tip is to start on an area that will be covered up, like a pistol grip where it will be covered by the grip plates, that way if you dont like it, you havent ruined your gun, a little like painting a room, try a bit first to see how you like it. There is nothing worse that having to redo a whole gun. Also, dont worry too much if it does not look like you expect straight away. Blue on a gun, I have found, has a much duller finnish at first until you apply the oil at the end, then the magic happens.
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Spencerman wrote:

...until you apply the oil at the end, then the magic happens.

Sounds like something Swiss Tony would say
Thanks Spence' I appreciate your tip about trying a hidden bit first. Fortunately, the UZI has plenty of room inside the receiver to experiment on
Cerwyn