Blueing

I decided to blue my CAW Colt 1911.

I've done couple before but haven't done for long time.

Here is what I did so far:

- take down the parts as much as you can
- dip into "water remover" (liquid you pour into your car's gas tank to ged rid of extra water/moist)
- after 3-4 days, most of paint been removed
- sand a slide with sand paper or sand sponge

As you can see, slide is now having silver color. I think I need to sand more to have clean surface, which is crucial to the end finish.

Will post the progress.

S

So far, so good! Shazhib.
Re-blue-ing is labour intensive from the little I've done; but I'm a lot more confident to do bigger tasks now.
I'm practising "dry brushing" silver on HW ABS to simulate weathering - so I guess we all enjoy making our guns look better or more realistic!

I'll look forward to seeing your posts!

That will be very interesting for me to learn :-)
Please take photos, they help a lot.

What size of sand paper do you use?
I guess very thin, like 1000 or similar?

Kiwigunner,

Yes, it is very labor intensive.
I do not know how fast I can complete this 1911. Basically, I only do sanding and blueing job outside (once I did indoor, found tiny black dirt all over the place). However, Tokyo very hot, the hottest summer in past 120 years, maybe it will be finished in sometime autumn. Blueing is also be a race of "you complete the sanding or you lost your finger prints".

I know what you mean. Some people try to do the same here.
http://www.nisert.jp/pic_disp.php?cat=revolver
In this link, if you scroll down, you will see Colt Paterson in damaged (weathered) finish.

Smootik,

I usually starts from 600 grid, and going up to 800, 1000 and 1200. Also use sponge type sander, as well as a brush on a hand tool. Usually what happen is, when you strip black paint, you will see some spots or "heat wrinkle" on a surface, making those smooth is not a easy task. Some guys actually aim for "mirror surface" or "perfect flat", but for me, I am not diligent enough to do that far....

Regards,

S

Well, finally done the bluing to my 1911.
The out some is, 60% satisfactory level....
It looks not bad on the photos, but when I see the gun on my hand:
- slide and frame having color difference
- metal parts gone too black
- some contrast or uneven blued pattern on a surface due to lack of sanding I suppose

Anyways, here is the one.

These photos show one very beautifully finished bluing job Shazhib
Very realistic and clearly well worth the effort.

Which Bluing compound did you use please I've just re-blued a steel magazine with Birchwood Casey bluing paste. This was my first attempt and I'm very happy with it. I'm thinking of re-bluing an old zinc alloy MGC Thompson I have but wonder which compound to use.
I'd be very happy if I could achieve a finish like your 1911

Thank you Cerwyn.

I used Birchwood Aluminum Black (BAB)
For HW plastic or zinc, aluminum black makes more blue color where regular steel blue makes more black or very deep blue.

For bluing, I usually do "dipping" rather than "rubbing". For this 1911, I diluted BAB by 3 times. But, I think I should have done in 5 times or more. If you dilute less, sometime it is bit difficult to make a good come because a reaction of BAB is fast, easy to make uneven finish. Also, less diluted BAB makes oxidization last longer even after you finished bluing process. I heard many of voice one made success in good blue color, but couple days later, it turned to black color. Therefore, if you do "dipping", I suggest 5 times or more. For zinc parts, I suggest even more diluted liquited, maybe 10 times or more. Zinc parts are very difficult to retain nice blue color. Likewise in my 1911, it becomes black easily.

There are many ways, tips, do's and don'ts, my method is just a one sample.

S

Excellent job Shazhib!
I endorse Cerwyn's comments completely!
Thanks for the detailed information.....very useful.

FIY: in English when you feel sad, sometimes you say "I feel "blue" or sand and "blue"; or I've got the "blues"!" ''

Your "blues" should make you feel very happy! ''

Kiwigunner

Hi Shazhib,

I'm very tempted to try using Birchwood Aluminium Black on one of my Marushin UZIs.
If the BAB produces a black colour rather than Blue it might be well suited to the UZI.

Do you use water to dilute the BAB or another chemical please

Thanks very much

Cerwyn -
what a great idea! Please let me know if you try this on your Uzi! I may try it, too, if you have success!
Jerrod

Cerwyn,

I use just regular water to dilute, no special chemical kind.
But when I dump the liquid after bluing, I first drain bluing liquid, then, water with baking soda to neutralized. It may harm water pipe (I assume many of countries use lead for water pipe, but just in case). When you do "rubbing", mixture may change.

Kiwigunner,

Thank you. We actually borrow "marrige blue" from English here.

S