A STEP-BYSTEP GUIDE TO PAINTING MODEL GUN FINISHES IN 1:1 SCALEWarning - lots of pics!
Hello everyone:
First a huge
thanks to all the kind words for my Type 11 Japanese LMG project (I also enjoy all the work here in the site by you folks as well!).
As promised, here are instructions on how I paint my model guns. I intentionally refer to these techniques for “1:1 scale”, as painting smaller scale armaments (e.g., 1/6, 1/35) are much simpler and often require only basic applications of off-the-shelf gun metal finishes such as MODEL MASTER, GUNZE, or TAMIYA with little further modification.
As with all techniques, always experiment on first spare parts or a “dummy” gun. These techniques, while called step-by-step, often require re-application of paint until you achieve the affect you want. In other words, I call the technique “layering” where you re-apply a paint layer until the effect is created. These techniques work for me, but may require personal alteration as each modeler is different (after all, they do call this an art
)!
Also important to note is that these finishes are not intended to be subject to physical abuse or constant use. If you have an airsoft gun for tactical field use, it is in my opinion, better to simply leave it in its original finish! If you still want to move the parts of your gun, then I suggest you leave the parts subject to friction in their original plastic or finish (mask them off before painting), and only paint the exposed areas (not internals etc.).
Guns also made of lead or metal such as MGC are better finished with proper gun bluing techniques or applying gun blue paste (well covered on this site already in other threads). These techniques here are again best applied only on ABS and Polystyrene plastics or even wood. Also make sure you have proper ventilation and a painting face mask.
TECHNIQUE # 1 (the very WORN look) This technique is effective if you want a very worn and abused look to your model gun. For this example, I am using the old LS plastic model kit of the Japanese NAMBU pistol to demonstrate this technique.
1) Assemble the model in components as required, and apply putty and sand all seams as required. Paint the model in these subassemblies as opposed to painting the gun in one overall piece! Ensure that the seams are smooth, as blemishes will appear if the surface and seams are not properly sanded. This step is no different than preparing an aircraft model for subsequent application of paint finishes.
2) For this technique, I do not use a primer and instead apply several light coats of TAMIYA Spray Lacquer Gloss Aluminum (TS-17) as the “primer” itself, either by airbrush or directly from the spray can.
3) Let dry overnight.
4) Apply one or two light coats of TAMIYA Spray Lacquer Gun Metal (TS-38).
5) Let dry overnight.
6) Apply an oil wash of WINDSOR NEWTON Raw Umber thinned heavily with HUMBROL enamel thinner by hand brush (not airbrush). You don’t have to use HUMBROL thinner , but experiment first as not all thinners are the same). HUMBROL in my opinion is one of the best enamel thinners on the hobby market!
7) Let stand for about 5 minutes! (DO NOT LET DRY OVERNIGHT).
8 ) Apply a tiny bit of clean enamel thinner to an old rag or cloth (show pilishing cloths work really nice). Gently spread the oil wash around the surface to even it out. The purpose of this step is to gently lift the gunmetal color in some areas to allow the undercoat of silver to show through subtly but evenly. There may be some paint lifting – in particularly around edges, but this is actually a nice desired effect particularly for worn metal! LESS IS BEST, as most worn guns are not showing much in the area of pure metal ”silver”. If you accidentally left too much paint in any area, simply repeat steps 4 through to 8 again as necessary. Note: You can apply several oil washes and repeat depending on the amount of weathered finish you desire. The combination of the oil wash reacting with the synthetic lacquer should produce a nice semi-gloss and subtly uneven finish as found on real gunmetal objects.
9) Apply a coat of TAMIYA Acrylic Clear (X22). This acts as a barrier for the final oil wash. This is a darker wash comprised of roughly equal parts of Raw Umber, Black, and Blue thinned again with HUMBROL enamel thinner. This final coat will provide an overall dark blue-brown color typical of older aged gunmetal. Real gunmetal aged with a slight brown patina to its color and thus the use of Raw Umber.
10) Finally, dry-brush any exposed areas prone to wear, with a bit of silver if you wish and polish the surfaces with TAMIYA Polishing Compound as the final touch. The photos illustrate these techniques. note the markings left in silver subtly showing through. The effect you want is a layering and almost 3D effect.
TECHNIQUE # 1 (the CLEANER look) This technique is effective if you want a nice patina to your gun with very little wear. For this example, I am using my Taisho Type 11 LMG to demonstrate this technique.
1) Assemble the model in components as required, and apply putty and sand all seams as required. Paint the model in these subassemblies as opposed to painting the gun in one overall piece! Ensure that the seams are smooth, as blemishes will appear if the surface and seams are not properly sanded.
2) Apply a primer coat of TAMIYA Fine Primer White or Grey.
3) Apply a spray coat (either airbrush or out of the spray can of TAMIYA Gun Metal (TS-38).
4) Let dry overnight.
5) Mix a custom color of gun metal using the following: TAMIYA Gun Metal (X-10) + Semi-gloss Black (X-18) + Dark Grey (XF-24) + Hull Red (XF-9). The ratios are approximately 45:45:5:5. What you want is the color leaning more on the black-gun metal look with tints of reddish brown and dark grey. I don’t know why they call it “gun blue” as I don’t see a lot of blue in it but you can experiment yourself by adding blue color if you wish.
6) Now here is the secret! Rub on using a soft cloth, liberal amounts of MIG Stain, Oil & Grease weathering liquid.
IMPORTANT – make sure you go over the areas using a cloth while the liquid is wet and do not wait even 5 minutes as when this dries and you rub more one, it lifts the underlying paint. In other words, only apply one thick coat spreading it around.
7) Apply a final thin cost of semi-gloss clear paint seal the paint, using any semi-gloss clear coat (I prefer MODEL MASTER ACRYL Semi Gloss).
Note in the photos how I tried my best to match the painted parts with the color of the original parts.
FINAL DETAIL PAINTING TECHNIQUES - #1: Wood Grips1) Rough up the surface with heavy grit sandpaper. This is only a preference and option but I like the worn wood look!
2) Paint the part in the required color. I like warm color browns abut any color will do to match your gun model.
3) Let dry overnight.
4) Apply a gloss coat (I like TAMIYA Clear X-22). This step is important as it lays foudnation for washes wjhich will come next.
5) Apply a wash made up of WINDSOR NEWTON Raw Umber thinned with HUMBROL thinner. Apply the "wash" by brush and let the color run into the creavices.
6) Let stand for about 3 hours or so.
7) Gently take a piece of soft cloth wetted with HUMBROL Thinner and gently wipe away the suface residue left by the wash and leave it in the creavices.
8 ) Apply a final coat of flat or semi-gloss clear to your liking.
FINAL DETAIL PAINTING TECHNIQUES - #1: Bakelite For some details where the finish is not uniform such as Bakelite, I suggest the following technique using my Airosft AEG MP40 as illustration:
1) Paint the part in the required color. In this example, I painted the Bakelite in the reddish variation found on some MP4Os. In this case, I used a custom mix of TAMIYA Red-Brown (and Brown).
2) Bakelite had a spotted look. To replicate this, mix black and white with the base coat to create darker and lighter tones of the base color.
3) Apply by hand in a stipple action, spots of both these colors over the base coat (do not worry if it looks too heavy as this is intentional).
4) To tone down the harshness between colors, take the base coat and thin it heavily and apply several mist coats (called filters) to “tone it down”. Be careful as too much application of this step will cover all your previous work.
5) Apply a final coat of flat or semi-gloss clear to your liking.
I hope these steps and guide help you achieve the finish you are looking for on your prized model guns! Thanks for your patience in allowing me to rant on this thread in this great hobby!
Harvey Low (kagero43) 
Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:03 pm
Absolutely Superb, Outstanding Harvey, thank you very, very much for this 
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