CMC M1 carbine question

Maybe this is a silly question... but why does the CMC M1 carbine have the semi/full auto selector switch/function fitted?
I know there were kits issued to convert the M1 to semi or full auto on the real steel, but cannot understand why the model is marked as M1, and has M2 functionality??
As I said probably another huge gap in my knowledge but can someone answer?
Cheers

Try to translate description for "U.S. Carbine Caliber .30 M2 (CMC, 2nd model)" (not 3rd!) found here:
http://homepage3.nifty.com/nkoinuma/WW2A.htm
It explains a bit of history - MGC released M2 version and CMC apparently did their own take on that.

Gentlemen - a VERY timely question & answer!

I took possession of my CMC Paratrooper M1 Carbine only two days ago and discovered the same thing as Johnny V.

The selector switch in question.
My carbine is missing its oilier and the bayonet fitting!

It seems like a repair to the folding sock had been successfully made by a previous owner; but the selector switch was loosely working. You can see the repair on the left of the top stock wire.
After some Google hunting I found a couple of good You Tube videos about M2 workings; my model was missing the "9" spring off the selector switch, so I soon made one and it operates as it should now. And I'll need to buy a bayonet fitting /end cap

However, the internals are basiallyc the M1 (semi-auto) version with the required components to make it fully automatic non-existent.

Thanks Smootik

Hi Kiwigunner ! Love that vid !! I want one of those demo models!!! for all modelguns! great thanks!
BTW my M1 has all the internals to fire full auto:) lucky!

lJohnnyV yours has all the M2 workings ????

And mine doesn't!

All I have to say is in the words of this Toyota Commercial (NZ):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbBx4Ql6Umo&feature=fvsr

Kiwigunner

Hi folks,

I actually tried to convert my Tanaka M1, into M2.
I bought M2 related parts from US, but the conversion required some modification around upper receiver, trigger housing and hammer. I think a sear needs to be replaced as well of which will arrive here in a mean time. Anyway, here are some photo.


Machined upper receiver belly. 2nd sear for M2 will top up this area, need o make some room for it.


Machined base (lower) part of hammer due to fitting of 2nd sear just aside.


Hammer and 2nd sear. I also machined the area bit front of hammer.


Right side of a view, with full auto bar links 2nd sear and slide


Left side of view with my hand made spring.

Well, all the parts are there, the fitting is done. Is that works smoothly? the answer is no.
I found a pin holds full auto bar has little bit of play. Also, an area the bar touches at a slide does not push the bar enough to release a hammer from 2nd sear. I assume that real M2 been made of steel, parts are solid and fitted tight, however, Tanaka modelgun body is made of zinc, parts are not fitted precisely (due to mix of Tanaka parts and real parts), strain by stress is more explicit.

I saw 2 video which Kiwigunner linked, I found the parts should be well fitted and adjusted to make every parts travels desired distance which is not really happening in my M2.

Still need some more work.

S

Hi Katsuro

Question, does the select lever move (try to return to semi position a little bit) when the link
bar is "trying to raise the 2nd sear?
Reason I ask this is on my CMC (which did come with all parts but did not fire full auto) this movement gave the effect same as yours of:
"an area the bar touches at a slide does not push the bar enough to release a hammer from 2nd sear."
The problem was the "9 spring" not having enough tension to hold the lever, and this allowed the bar to drop very slightly from true position needed to trigger 2nd sear.
Problem was that in order to insert 9 spring tension was reduced, answer was to insert 9 spring then use pliers to "uncoil" it while in position to put extra tension back on, mine worked then.

Other option is to insert small metal spacer between 2nd sear and bar. (also may need to shave top of 2nd sear as it moves higher and may bind on top section.

Sorry if all that is not related to Tanaka problem:) just a suggestion!

Hi JohnnyV & Shazhib,

Two things might help:

1) the size of your spring seems to have a bigger "0" in the "9" = needs a tighter turn to increase the tension; and it looks a bit smaller than the one I made, which took me two attempts; the first attempt the spring was a bit too small!
It works fine now


2) the slide in your photo Shaz is an M1 slide. The M2 slide had a cam angle cut in it:
On the real M2 the slide had to be replaced, but I'm sure you can modify yours.

If either of you guys could send me the dimensions of the trip lever and the interrupter I'll make my own to tailor fit my carbine!1

I have to modify my sear too, but I have photos I can use as a guide.

Thanks.

Kiwigunner

Johnny,

I made my spring tight, but I see it moves slightly. It does not firmly affix to a position of full auto. I know this kind of extra play/move is not good.

I think it is good idea to add something to 2nd sear so that the sear moves more when the var pivots.

But I also the area where front side of bar been pushed down, need "mountain" to push the bar down (I think this is something kiwigunner mentioned by comparing his and my photo.

Other thing I noticed is, it requires fairly strong force to push up the 2nd sear. That is other reason all the parts synthetically with less play.

S

Hi Shazhib,

Thanks for shring all this information. I am learning a lot about M2' Carbines!
I'm not sure of the shape of your sear, but here's a photo of an M2 sear for comparison.



I measured my nine spring (using a piece of string!) and it is 50 mm long when pulled straight.
Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Kiwigunner