Not good... MGC Colt 1911 Firing Problems

Yes, once I get home I will take a pic of the frame with slide off...and I hope I can get this fixed...

Also, would this be the cause of the slide not locking back as well...I bet it is...

No I would not think so.... but did you say the slide does lock back when you manually pull the slide back with empty mag?
and does not when you fire off last round in mag normal way?

Slide lock could be related or not. It depends on magazine spring and follower, my MGC sometimes fires ok but doesn't lock the slide when mechanism timing seems off.

Slide does lock when pulled manually with empty mag inserted. But it does not lock when last round is fired...I am just trying to pin-point what is causing each problem, or if theyre related.

Thank you again.

Hi
I would skip the slide lock for now and concentrate on getting the trigger to reset/hammer to cock when manualy cycling action with trigger pulled, make that the number 1 problem as it is a clear error if it does not do that, and can be checked with out even firing loaded cart, so simpler to work on / find solution.
Looking forwards to the pictures:)

I'll be able to take pics around 5pm Hawaii time...they should be posted shortly thereafter.

Hope we get this figured out!

Well, I got home and messed with part 22 on the frame...didnt really do anything besides press on it a few times...and loaded a cap, and the slide locked back! I got excited...loaded two more carts, and the hammer didnt cock...manually did it, and the slide failed to lock back...

I dont know what I but I think its that one part thats screwing with me...heres a pic...

At the meantime when the pic needs to be fixed again...I think my M92SB's hammer/sear somehow shares similar problem with Tattoojew's gun...

Cerwyn wrote:

Tattoojew wrote:

Slide does lock when pulled manually with empty mag inserted. But it does not lock when last round is fired...I am just trying to pin-point what is causing each problem, or if theyre related.

Thank you again.

What happens when you release the slide allowing it to go forwards with the empty mag inserted Does the hammer stay cocked

It does...

Well, Ive reached a dead end with this thing...Ive tried adjusting the sear and disconnector, and i get the same result over and over...hammer not cocking after first shot, and slide not locking back after last...Im seriously thinking Ive got a lemon gun...

Hammer should cock before round is chambered, as far as I can tell. It requires less slide travel.

Try the following:
- remove slide. You should be left with frame.
- release hammer gently (hold it by hand, press grip safety/trigger, slowly lower it)
- do not press finger, try to cock hammer by hand. It should cock.
- release it gently
- now press trigger and try to cock hammer. It should NOT cock (sic!) just go back
- keep trigger pressed
- press disconnector (the little silver part #22 that sticks out at the top of frame, just in front of hammer) down. It should CLICK, fall a bit into the frame and stay there, lower than previosly. Keep trigger pressed.
- now it should be possible to cock the hammer.

If these steps work differently in your model, problem must be in how disconnector works with sear and leaf spring. This will require more disassembly to check parts for damage or misalignement.

If they work the same without a slide, this might mean your slide does not press disconnector correctly. Mine (slide and disconnector) are quite worn out, but they still work, so it shouldn't be the main problem.

============ separate thing, at the moment do not do two at the same time

For the slide to lock back two main things must happen:
- when magazine is empty, its follower, pushed by mag spring, must go to the top of the magazine and push slide lock lever upwards. If spring is too weak, or follower is damaged (it's plastic) it may not operate correctly. Check that slide locks on empty mag when you lock it by hand. If spring is too weak, or follower damaged, usually it doesn't. Sometimes spring is weak but when you rack manually it has enough time to push follower, but when firing things happen too quickly for it.
- slide must go back far enough so that lever can enter indent on the slide and lock it. It sometimes does not happen when blowback is weaker for some reason (dirt, weaker cap etc)

Really good description Smootik !! if Tattoo follows steps these exactly he should have good idea where problem is:) really well described!

smootik wrote:

- keep trigger pressed
- press disconnector (the little silver part #22 that sticks out at the top of frame, just in front of hammer) down. It should CLICK, fall a bit into the frame and stay there, lower than previosly. Keep trigger pressed.
- now it should be possible to cock the hammer.

I did this with the trigger still pressed, and hammer didnt cock...I dunno what to do next...I guess its the disconnector thats jacking up...how do I fix it?

Please be more precise - which step failed?
Does the disconnector "click" down to another position?

Once I press on the disconnector it clicks with the trigger still pulled, and then I decock the hammer, I re-cock the hammer, the hammer clicks once, but doesnt engage with the trigger pulled. If the disconnector is supposed reset the hammer to be set and locked into the cocked position, its not working. And that may be my problem with not being able to fire off another round.

Tattoojew wrote:

Once I press on the disconnector it clicks with the trigger still pulled, and then I decock the hammer, I re-cock the hammer

Wait - when trigger is pulled, hammer shouldn't stay cocked and you should not need to decock it!

Hammer should be de-cocked before you press disconnector. This simulates situation just after firing previous round.
THEN you press disconnector (to simulate how it is pressed down by slide moving back) and after it clicks - finally cock hammer (to simulate it cocking (by moving slide).

Disconnector is supposed to reset the mechanism indeed. If it doesn't, the next checking step will be further disassembly and checking that parts are not damaged and are assembled correctly. This is a bit complicated, parts always try to run away or get misaligned, at least when I do it ;-)

You are correct...and I thought I was doing it right (as told) with the trigger held down. Only when I release the trigger, does the hammer actually lock into position...I tried firing a cap, releasing off of the trigger quickly, and that didnt help...Im not quicker than the slide...lol.

So which parts are the troublesome ones?

Can't help off the top of my head...
I'll dig out my 1911 and take some photos for reference maybe.

Tattoojew wrote:

You are correct...and I thought I was doing it right (as told) with the trigger held down. Only when I release the trigger, does the hammer actually lock into position...

This sounds like problem with the Sear...

I can't seem to take photos that would illustrate mechanism well :-/

Take a look at these animations. They show how sear works together with hammer, disconnector and trigger in real 1911.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHviEIkZWhA
http://www.m1911.org/1911desc.htm
http://www.m1911.org/loader.swf (hide slide/frame/barrel/safety to see sear)

See also disassembly and details of how parts are positioned here (MGC model is similar enough):
http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm

"Hook" that holds hammer cocked needs to be pushed by leaf spring (flat one at the back of grip) to properly engage hammer. If spring is too weak or badly installed, this might be one of possibilities.

If you have frame (slide removed) and look inside magazine well, you can see how parts move. Make sure hammer is uncocked.
- pull slightly trigger. Notice how trigger bar pushes on disconnector, against one leaf of flat spring (also can be seen)
- pull trigger as when shooting. Notice that that bar pushes disconnector against sear, holding it between bar and sear.
- push disconnector. Notice how it move deeper, latching under sear. Trigger moves a bit further too (if not fully pressed).
- pull hammer backwards. You should shortly notice that sear moves a bit while hammer is half-cocked on the first sear notch. At the same time another leaf of flat spring moves.
- pull hammer all the way cocked. Parts should move slightly again, and flat springs should get more tension.

Please use animations as illustrations until I figure out anything better.

Thanks for your help...i now know its the sear, just trying to figure out where the problem lies...