Guess what . . .

. . . this will become when it is ready!

NB: basis modelgun is a Marushin XM177E2.











Regards,
Jati

IAR M27.

Don't forget that the bulge on the left side of the upper is rounded on HKs, and not square.

Thank's for the replies.

M27 IAR, no.

Very nice! I am impressed by what I can see so far.

Is the upper made from the standard Marushin M16 upper?

Looks like a HK 416 on the first glance ...

MadMike wrote:

Looks like a HK 416 on the first glance ...

But which one? HK416A5, or HK416F?  Or...?!?

The extended mag and the "muzzle device" look misleading...

More details, please!

Hi, it should be HK G38.

Frankengun is nearly ready. Some parts are original HK stuff (like slim line stock, pistol grip, dust cover, ambi fire control selector); mag and brass deflector are from Colt.
That beauty is enjoyable heavy (ca. 3,5 kg without gear) and feels rock solid (no wobble or rattle; when you shake it, the only noise you can hear is the tungsten granule inside the buffer, but you have to listen very closely).



Regards,
Jati

What a beauty!

And G38 - D´Oh! Should have know it´s a German gun...  

Yes, shame on you hkfan.

What do you think? Is it OTB-capable?

Hmmm, dunno.

Maybe you should make a video. With MadMike: for ze rite tjermen/swabian accent wenn cumming out off zze water

BTW: what about the left side 'bulge' rounded or rectangular?

That baby has a fire rate of over 800 rpm. In full auto modus I have problems to count the rounds.
The mentioned gadget helps me to keep track of my ammo.

Yes, upper and lower are the standard M16 Marushin uppers, or to be precise: I used the Marushin  XM177E2 receiver.

I left the bulge on the left side as it is, for two reasons: It was too difficult to remove the square bulge and replace it through a smaller rounded one (the inside recess is housing the fixed ejector).
Second: the even area is ideal to mount the ammo counter there.

Wow, that is a masterpiece? What kind of coating or paint did you use? How did you make the markings? You had to fill the original markings first, didn't you? How did you add the case deflector next to the ejection port? A lot of questions, I know.

Big thumbs up from a Swabian Guy next to Stuttgart.

...and some more questions from a frankonian guy:

- what kind of curved trigger guard is this?
- how did you modify magazine catch and bolt release to ambidextrous and wide button bolt release, respectively?
- how did you modify / fabricate the cages around said mag release / bolt catch?
- did you machine the picatinny rail on top of the upper receiver out of the original upper, or did you attach separate piece (which? how? I think I see a crosspin in the front of the upper...)
- which hand guard did you use (RS? Airsoft?) ?
- how is the handguard attached? (HK (-style) bolt nut? modified Maruschin upper front end)?
- which gas block did you use (again: RS or Airsoft or...?)
- is there an op-rod - and if so: which/ from where (and again: RS, Airsoft, self-made?)
- can I get a buffer tube like that?
- can we get a pic of the attachment for the round counter?
- ...and all of the above that "zee assa tjermen Mike" already asked.



As to MadMikes question re: case deflector: I guess he screwed it on, looks like screw heads on one of the pics of the unfinished receiver...

Shot a lot of pics during the conversion. I am busy at the moment and have new PC; most pics are on old PC, so my reply will take some time. But will answer all questions step by step. Please be patient.


„What kind of coating or paint did you use?“

2K laque system, consisting of primer, basis paint (RAL 9005) and clear varnish. Basis job did a car varnisher. My advice: never give your modelgun to car guys; they will paint it like a car and that means thick layers of paint. Had much trouble; after first paint job upper and lower didn’t fit together, absolute awful. Asked beforhand how thick, he said only some My. Thickness was around 0.4 mm [sic!] at end.



„How did you make the markings?“

Markings are lasered  



No, it was a joke; markings are decals. BTW: Laser will not work on that alloy and a fillered surface,

„You had to fill the original markings first, didn't you?“

Yes, the original stamps are fillered with JB Weld.







Made also the hole for the sear-pin smaller to get more space for fire symbol.





„How did you add the case deflector next to the ejection port?“

Shell deflector is screwed and glued in.

Organ donor is a worn out and demilled Colt upper:














As you can see on the last pic, I made the ejection window smaller, so that the HK dustcover can close properly.


More coming soon.
Regards.
Jati

Brilliant work, very very impressive.

That is really stunning!

Getting the proper finish is really hard. I decided to use Gun Kote flat black on my M4A1 model. I had to get that from the USA and I had to buy me an airbrush. The finish turned out really good, and it seems to be quite durable after cured in the oven. It was a very thin coating but I also learnt the hard way that putting it on too thick turned out shiny.

Keep up the posts as we are all too curious.

Thank’s for all the kind words.

„- what kind of curved trigger guard is this?“

Machined the winter trigger guard by myself of aluminium; milled it straight, then bend by hand till pin holes match.  NB: trigger guard is spring loaded like Marushin; original HK stuff not spring loaded.








„- how did you modify magazine catch and bolt release to ambidextrous and wide button bolt release, respectively?“

Please watch pics (can’t explain in English straight off; unfortunately some pics missing)


Let’s start with the ambi mag release.






























Real Deal for comparison:

to be continued

Wow, what an amount of planning and machining!
Wish I had a lathe and mill (and would know how to put it to use).

btw: is the mag release truly ambidextrous or just cosmetic?

I love to watch some serious work like that :-D

Thank’s smootik.

„is the mag release truly ambidextrous or just cosmetic?“

That part works:








Here are some pics oft he ambi bolt cach release.
BTW:  I had big problems to attach the lever on it, so that the connection is sturdy. In the first attempt both parts were only glued together, but it didn’t hold.  In the second attempt I used an additional small screw and glued parts together again. Now it is fine. Unfortunately I did not find the pics of the lever itself; but I have disassembled the finished part to shot a pic.

Original Marushin part


Milling a notch to attach the lever


Removing the knurl


Engraving front plate


Enlarged Bolt Catch Front Plate


Finished part; ambi lever is glued and screwed in.


Now, lefties have it easy.


More coming soon

„- how did you modify / fabricate the cages around said mag release / bolt catch?“

HK416 A5/G38 has protective barriers for ambi magazine release button and the ambi bolt catch lever (on both sides).
I milled the receivers on the concerned spots, machined the protective walls and screwed and glued them in (with JB Weld).

Here are some pics (no pics of the left sided protective wall for the bolt release button)

Passage for ambi bolt catch release lever


Glued-in socket for ambi lever


Recess for protective barrier for ambi mag release knob


Milling the barrier itself



„- did you machine the picatinny rail on top of the upper receiver out of the original upper, or did you attach separate piece (which? how? I think I see a crosspin in the front of the upper...)“

Bought a separate picatinny rail, attached it to upper with 3 screws and glue. In front you see fillered hole of screw.