Hudson's M3A1 "Grease Gun" Re-Paint Guide

Post by Reemo

Hi Guys

Anything is better than that odd gray color from the factory. I'd still rather have a REAL STEEL grease gun ANYDAY but it sure looks better than it did. Mine will hang on a mannequin in my "war room".

For those who asked, the paint job is simple.....just a couple steps, I didnt do anything elaborate.

Step one - start with a NEW clean gun if possible. No grease, oil or powder on it. If painting an older/used gun, clean first with Polly Scale plastic prep (cleaner). It is meant to clean plastic model parts before painting. Folllow directions, Alcohol or mineral spirits may be substituted. NO sanding is needed. *NOTE - your paintjob is only as good as your prep work. (Adhesion Adhesion Adhesion)

Step two - preshading (optional) - I build plastic military models and one trick I learned is to "preshade". That is, to spray black paint FIRST ......... OUTLINE around key areas to form shadows and depth.......if you look at the photos along the weld lines, around the sling loops, in the deep recesses, it has been painted FIRST with Humbrol matte black. Once preshadeing is dry, then go right over with the main color.

Step three - top coat of color - I happened to choose Humbrol "Metalcote", part number 27004. You can use what you like, but this color is a good "go between"......sort of gun metal color, sort or parkerized.....it just worked for this gun......follow directions..........once the paint is dry (20 mins) buff the color with a clean SOFT rag. Stand back and smile. It polished to a reflective metalized finish. SIMPLE. *NOTE,....dont wait any longer than 20 mins, othwerwise the paint wont polish out.

Step four - optional - once the paint has hardened off (24 hours), you can weather the gun slightly - "drybrush" dirty metal colors (Humbrol metal colors mixed with black artist oil) on the raised areas to simulate wear - likewise you may LIGHTLY apply pastel powders (MIG pigments are great) to change the hue of the metal to brownish or even purple or green to simulate field use, wear, and even heat.......another tip is to simply apply "smoke black" pigment powder to weldlines and such to accent the shading and highlights. (see the weldlines above in the photo of my gun).

Use sparingly - the best advice I can give with using pastel powders is when you THINK you have done enough, you have probably done too much!
_________________
"This is your life......and its ending one minute at a time."

Post by Reemo

rizzo wrote:

Nice guide Reemo. Would a similar finish be achieved on HW guns? Or is the adhesion a problem on them?

It can be a problem, yes.
If the truth was told? NO paint is going to stick completely to metal surfases, especially zinc.
I have another paint project I am doing right now with a Marushin UZI using Duracoat....it is likely the best firarms paint there is, but will still wear off "high use" areas.
I will post pics of the UZI coming soon.....it is about half done.
The best advice I can give is always thin your paint (except duracoat) with Lacquer thinner.....it bites into the surface and helps adhesion. This goes for plastic or metal guns.
And make sure the surface is properly prepped (plastic or metal) - clean the heck out of it.
If anybody has any airbrush tips to share (or questions) I would happy to open the conversation to that.

Airbrush - you must use an airbrush with the gunmetal for it to work. And its HIGHLY recommended with any color you use. (If you want a smooth factory finish).

The gunmetal definitely does NOT have the appearance of "blued steel".

If that is the color you want, spend some time and research the Humbrol charts. You will need to pick another color.

You can always basecoat with shiny black and topcoat with transparent dark blue (TAMIYA). That might work.
_________________
"This is your life......and its ending one minute at a time."