Cleaning Components after Firing

Post by ricks


When a black powder weapon is torn down, some shooters soak virtually everything metal and whatever isn't considered stock or handgrip furniture. Is that appropriate with modelguns, or is it a matter of excess?
As pervasive as the phosphorous fumes can be, it seems like it might be a good idea.

Hiya Rick,

I've learned, to my cost, that certainly Steel model gun parts benefit from a thorough cleaning and a really good soak in decent Gun Oil after every use.
I now store my Steel guns well oiled up but wipe all the excess off before attemting to fire them.

Storing them virtually dry i.e. with just a smear of oil on the steel led to rust problems very quickly indeed.

Firing the model gun with too much oil about only leads to the oil "gumming" up causing cartridges to stick in detonator chambers and loads of dirty soot and crap to clean up afterwards.

Plastic and ABS models won't rust at least so I believe a little Silicone Oil is fine after a thorough cleaning.
Zinc Alloy will corrode badly and if anything I tend to give everything a thorough dousing in Gun Oil before storing but wipe the excess off before firing.
I'm sorry I misunderstood your "figure of speech" my friend Reading back through it, my reply does come over quite rudely, I meant to say that hopefully all this info will stay on here for future ref whenever you need it. I've printed off some Hints and Tips before now so they don't get lost

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by ricks

Thanks Cerwyn,
Is there any reason that parts can't be submerged in water for the cleaning, as long as they are dried properly and oiled?
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Rick

Hi Rick,

I'd be interested to hear what the other guys think about this one too...

There's no problem immersing cartridges and their component parts in hot soapy water, likewise Detonator Chambers and pins. I do just that all the time using the Ultrasonic cleaner... but everythinghas to be dried completely and oiled where appropriate.

I have also run hot water from a tap (faucet) through pistol barrels and to wash det. pins that I couldn't remove. My Luger and Mauser M712 aretwo in particular. Both of these models were new and have only been fired a few times so there wasn't a lot of dirt to remove anyway. I dried them off with a hairdryer.

As for other gun components like barrels and bolts etc, I'd guess that hot soapy water would be no problem to wash the dirt off as long as everything is thoroughly dried and oiled afterwards.

I'm slightly unsure about leaving steel parts in water for long, rust is a killer! But if every trace of water is dried off and that the water used is good and hot it might well be ok?

I would like to hear what the other guys think, what do they do?

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by Mark

I often rinse my detonators etc in hot water, baking soda and vinegar after they have soaked for a while i run them under hot tap water and dry them with a hair drier. This usually controls the rust even without using oil on steel/zinc etc. parts.

I really like your tips and suggestions keep em coming!
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Wanted to buy: MGC Sten MK3....trades?(still)

MGC MP40 Marushin MP40 Nakata MP40 TRC MP40

Modelgun manufacturers, past and present:CMC,CAW,Hudson,HWS,LS,MGC(R.I.P. 1960's~2007) Marushin,Marui,Kokusai,Shoei,Tanaka and Western Arms

Hiya Mark,

The use of Baking Soda and Vinegar is mentioned on here often.
I have no idea how you guys use it though !

Is there any chance you might write up a description please how this method is done?

How much Baking Soda? How much Vinegar, which Vinegar?

Thanks!

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by Mark

Cerwyn,

1. Obtain a bowl or a pan that is roughly the size or larger of the parts that you intend to clean.

2. fill it half way (or just enough to cover the parts) with hot tap water.

3. Obtain some plain white (distilled is preferred although not really necessary) cooking vinegar and add some to the hot water. Plain white vinegar should be available locally in local groceries etc.

4. Obtain some Baking soda (baking powder/sodium bicarb) again, this should be available locally at the groceries. (I use the "Arm&Hammer" brand)Now, take a small amount of the baking soda (a "pinch" will do) and drop it into the water/vinegar mix. This will cause the vinegar/hot water to foam and expand. So try to do this in a container that is tall enough to contain any extra spill over.

Try it i think that you will like it
_________________
Wanted to buy: MGC Sten MK3....trades?(still)

MGC MP40 Marushin MP40 Nakata MP40 TRC MP40

Modelgun manufacturers, past and present:CMC,CAW,Hudson,HWS,LS,MGC(R.I.P. 1960's~2007) Marushin,Marui,Kokusai,Shoei,Tanaka and Western Arms

Post by Mark

cerwyn wrote:

Thanks Mark,
That's answered my curiosity
I will try this method but is it OK to use on ABS parts?
Cerwyn

I have successfully used this baking soda/hot water/vinegar solution on all of my modelguns ABS/HW/Zinc/Steel. None of these have been affected in the least by this solution. Although, i must stress the importance of rinsing/ drying off all parts of a modelgun after they have been in this or any water. These models seem to rust/corrode really fast.

Post by figaro

As an aside, when i shoot my black powder guns, which is hardly ever anymore, I strip and clean them with water and dish washing detergent, then thoroughly dry and oil them when done.
Best way to do it, keeps the guns firing.
JJ.
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www.thebutcher-movie.com

Post by ricks

My dilemma may be shared by others: Sometimes I don't have a lot of "play time." Is there a really quick way to clean these models?
I love my collection, but I'm reluctant to fire them, because I hate the mess & the sometimes-tedious cleanup & simply have too little time to do it all.
Other than the proficiency we gain with practice, can we do a simple "dip & dry" that would speed up the process?
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Rick

ricks wrote:

My dilemma may be shared by others: Sometimes I don't have a lot of "play time." Is there a really quick way to clean these models?
I love my collection, but I'm reluctant to fire them, because I hate the mess & the sometimes-tedious cleanup & simply have too little time to do it all.
Other than the proficiency we gain with practice, can we do a simple "dip & dry" that would speed up the process?

Hi Rick,
Exactly the same dilemma I have here All that time spent loading up and preparing then 2-3 seconds later your mag's empty
Proificiency gained with practice definately helps a lot. Spending a couple of hours loading as many cartridges as you can helps too, at least when you do fire, you've plenty of them.
For cleaning cartridges, the best "Quick Clean" for me is the Ultrasonic Cleaner and Lyman Polisher.
As for the gun, it's down to practice I think, the more times you strip it, the easier and faster it gets but it's still a time consuming but essential job :?
Cerwyn

Post by ricks

Thanks, Cerwyn
I guess there's no proverbial "magic wand" for the dirty work
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Rick

I guess not Rick, if only there was!

Cartridges, Detonator Chambers and Pins really have to be cleaned after every session, you shouldn't really let them stand as they will corrode pretty fast.

If you're in a real hurry you could always give the magazine, mag well and bolt a good spray with some gun oil or similar, let that soak in and strip it and clean it properly next day

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.

Post by ricks

Thanks again, Cerwyn
The "next day" tip is encouraging.
It's a shame someone doesn't come up with a noncorrosive cap (with a nice flash for the forward venting models, of course). I'm sure a few of us would be interested. It's frustrating to have nice stuff that you can't use unless you have the time to do the obligatory follow-up.
I remember years ago someone telling me about a solution of some sort that he would immerse his black powder revolver in after using it. He'd then give it a minimal swabbing & blow the parts dry with a hair dryer. Unfortunately, it sounds like that "soak & dry" technique may have been an exaggeration.
Take care & thanks to all for your hints (& patience)...
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Rick

Just shows you how realistic these modelguns are doesn't it? Real Steel ones need cleaning so modelguns do also

Someone would make a fortune with a non-corrosive, dirtfree, muzzleflashing cap... maybe some day eh?

Cerwyn
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Hobby collector of mainly WW2 era uniforms, headgear, field equipment and replica weapons.