Post by Garyforce Well gang here’s Gary’s next review. My new modelgun…
MARUSHIN’S ENFIELD NO.2 MKI (KIT VERSION)
(pictured below)
Specs Length: 25.5 cms / 10" (muzzle to butt)
Barrel: 12.7 cm / 5" (full length / open)
Weight: 650g (approx)
Materials: Shock resistant abs & zinc alloy
Grip: Plastic
Comments This is my first ever kit modelgun so to be honest I was expecting bother …and I got it ! :?
After opening the box and making sure everything was where it was supposed to be I then started to piece it together. I got as far as step 5 when I hit trouble (which is no great achievement when you consider parts 1-3 had already been done ! !
My trouble was the hammer ! the holes in the metal part for the small joints were misaligned, by less than a millimetre ! doesn’t sound like much but this made it impossible to put the thing together without ‘filing’ the holes to make them wider. (let this be a lesson for those of you buying kit versions you WILL need a selection of small files, pliers, scalpel, tweezers, small model hammer & small screwdrivers….oh and good eyesight !
)
So once that problem was sorted the rest of the gun went together fairly easily (few mistakes by me and 1 or 2 screws in the wrong place…… but hey I don’t speak Japanese
).
Once constructed I have to say the gun looks ok … and the weight and grip are comfortable.
Downpoint’s ….. the grip looks….and feels plastic and nasty
.. I don’t know if there are wooden grips available for this modelgun, but if there are I want them quick sharpish !
Another mark against this gun though this is a very personal thing. For me the difference in colour between the ABS plastic and the metal parts is too much ! :? … ranging from black… to a shabby worn out grey ! so for me … I’m going to look into painting this gun some how. (for further information on modelgun re-spray’s seethe topic, Modelgun Modifications : Re-paint (spray) of plastic modelgun).
The final finishing touch is the removal of the parting or ‘centre’ line from the plastic parts of the gun. This is done with a scalpel blade & very fine sandpaper. (for further information on modelgun re-spray’s seethe topic, Modelgun Modifications : How to remove the parting (centre) line of HW).
So. That’s it ..isn’t it ? ….. NO ! …….. of course it isn’t !
The next problem I encountered is firing the thing ! upon pulling the trigger the cylinder, on occasion, got jammed and refused to rotate at all ! … turns out this is down to the ‘catches’ on the cylinder not allowing the cylinder to spin.
The reason for this is the plastic model has not been adequately filed and the excess plastic removed ! ….. this one caught me totally off guard and will take me a while to sort as the area is very small and fiddley and if you file too much away you will knacker the cylinder catches altogether ! so ill will keep you all posted on how that turns out !
Loading Loading the enfield is pretty standard to all revolvers except the way the cylinder is accessed. The gun takes the .38 caliber carts which you 1st unscrew, then you take a 7mm cap face up and pushing down the cartridge all that remains is to screw the cart back together. Having primed six cartridges you simply then press the thumb catch (to the left of the hammer) to operate the ‘swing open’ barrel & cylinder so it appears as though your gun is snapped in 2
! now … push your carts into the cylinder snap the gun back together and your done.
Firing Just pull the trigger !
This is a ‘semi automatic’ revolver in the sense that you can just keep pulling the trigger and the cylinder will automatically rotate until all 6 rounds are spent, except for me that is till I solve my little problem (see above)
you can discharge the gun as slow or quickly as you please really ! … the whole process could be over in 3-4 seconds.
Cleaning Ok now cleaning the gun has the good old 2 methods …. The quick way and the thorough way !
The Quick way.
Press the thumb catch to release the barrel …. Take the cylinder out …. And clean it !
…how easy was that !
The thorough way.
This involves you first removing the thumb catch, then 4 screws allow you to remove the plate housing the trigger mechanism, which is not to fiddley really ! and at the risk of repeating myself as you remove the hammer & trigger its important (if not referring to instructions) to make note of how the parts of the hammer & trigger fit together ! (but as you had to put the damn thing together in the first place you should know this anyway
)
A few more screws and catches allow you to remove the barrel and the grip. Next, clean and oil the gun using whatever cleaning solution / oil you prefer. (i recommend marks cleaning technique of hot water, baking soda & vinegar)
Then once we are cleaned and oiled .... put it all back together ....and that’s that ! you don’t need to clean this revolver that thoroughly that often unless your firing it a lot that is !
Over all Well ….. this was an experience
…. And for me…. The lesson to be learnt was DON’T BUY KIT VERSIONS !
But that’s just me ! … im lazy ! …I don’t like all this faffing about…. I want my gun to work as soon as I open it up !
… if you like your kits then this is going to be nothing to you
The problems I’ve encountered, not really the ‘hammer issue’ but the trouble with the cylinder has taken some of the pleasure out of this modelgun for me and made it more of a chore !
And again me just being picky …. The difference in the black colours is an issue for me… (but not for any sane person
) …. The grip however is an insult to anyone with eyes !
it looks…feels…. and is… BLOODY AWFUL ! ! if Marushin don’t do a wooden grip for this I’m going to be a bit put out!
so please MR. Marushin …if your reading this ….can I have a wooden grip please ! !
This is only getting a 6/10 from me ! … I want it for my collection. … and I got the kit version for the price …. But I wont be doing that again …. Id rather pay and get it pre made !