Old blog post about HobbyFix XM177E2

https://chobi7979.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-604.html?sp

I found an old blog entry back from 2011 about the HobbyFix XM177E2. This is a very nice model and it was one of the most realistic dummy models back then in the early 1990s. It had some tradeoffs (wrong markings “Commando”, which was only common on the earlier XM177E1 with the short 10 inch barrel instead the correct “XM177E2”, no unique serial number and screwed-in dummy firing pin to mention some). These things were improved on the later M4A1 and M16A4 models, but other than that the XM177E2 is great. It is using real (sadly non Colt) AR-15 aftermarket parts like handguards and retractable stock, but the pistol grip was most likely a real Colt part (marked “C” inside). HF got the grey finish quite realistic looking, but this finish is generally suffering from aging after almost 30 years now.
The author is writing that he was able to get it second-handed at the famous Victory show for 50.000 JPY, which for sure was a good price, even in 2011. He also writes that it was most likely made in only 120~130 pieces and originally sold for 130000 JPY.
It came with a real 30 rd magazine (maybe from various manufacturers) that got a new dark grey coating from Hobby Fix that quickly wears off where the magazine is inserted into the mag well.
It is very hard to get one these days, especially when you are after a boxed one with the five dummy rounds that were the only accessories. The few that showed up over the last years were sold in the 150000 – 200000 JPY price range. The later M4A1 models are even more sought after and will cost even more these days.

I'm still learning here. I cleaned some decades old mgc 1921 Thompsons. I cleaned with CLP. It cleaned to a perfectly smooth shine...no abrasives at all.
My Grey mini 14 is of course steel, and you leave it lightly oiled....I've had it rust internally and the bolt wouldn't retract.....so corrosion control is absolutely necessary.

Would a Grey model gun's appearance perk up if lightly oiled?

Why I ask:

When I went to cry about my 1921s not being black....I noticed in the pictures I took the guns looked pretty black due to the light coat of oil. Would such a coat work with Grey?

I just got a zinc blackener, but I wonder if I should leave it up to whomever buys it from me?

As a gun guy sometimes our employees mandates we use clp on steel guns and leave a light coat of clp. I do not use clp on my Grey Ruger mini-14, I run an oil impregnated cloth over it as the last step.

I will note I didn't clean the mgcs with plastic dental tools, cleaning patches and clp for no reason. In the US corroded guns are sold....with rusty drums and corroded guns.....so cleaning was necessary.

I have a file of 1921 "greatest hits" ie the aftermath when you use your modelgun to prop open the hood of your car for 10 years, then decide to sell in on gun broker.

I've got some Grey guns inbound to my Arsenal so I wonder how to restore the grey.

Sadly I cannot help much here. The finish on real guns is different from modelguns that are made from various kinds of plastic or metal alloys. I learnt that Birchwood Casey aluminum black works on many modelgun parts, even on the HobbyFix receivers. But it is only for spot repair. Larger areas tend to get stains.
I also have refinished models with KG Coatings gun cote finish. It is available in different colors and has to be applied by airbrush and cured in an oven (so not suitable for plastic models of all kind). When done in the proper way in thin (!) layers, it gets a nice dull and slightly rough finish.
Real guns often have a blued, parkerized, anodized or phosphate finish.