Gun bluing

Few pics of my first attempt at bluing. The Gun is a kokusai M19 (had to be), gold plating removed to show the chrome. I used Abbey Blu Gel and its taken some time to get to this stage, i soaked a cotton pad in the gel and applied it several times letting the gel dry between applying, it started to blue the gun but looked crap, so i left it for a week or more then applied the gell again. I have repeated the process many times to build up the blue and i think i am about there, once dried i sprayed with silicone spray to polish but will look at trying a gun oil see if that works better for some shine without removing the blue.

I might even apply more blue in a few weeks see if it deepens at all.

Looking good. Sometimes multiple coats lightly buffed with wire wool can help with uniformity, but don't apply the final oil coat until you have applied all of the bluing coats.

Looks great

Looks Great.

Just spotted this, I used to re-blue many of my guns back in the day, and I always used to used Bisley gel as my preferred method unless you are able to dip it. A little tip for anyone else blueing a Smith & Wesson style revolver. The top strap on the revolver should be a cold blue (flat black) and the hammer and trigger should have a case hardened look (almost greyish tortoise shell greasy oil pattern), while the rest of the gun should be a warm blue. I know it is not as easy to do with model guns because of the pot metal construction, but using the same blue a few less times on the trigger and hammer, and more times along the top strap (this is the part that is flattish that runs from the rear sight assembly along the top of the frame, and along the top of the barrel, but also includes the shooty hole part at the front) to reduce glare. Also remember that the colour will change once you oil it up, so I always recommend no matter what gun you are working on to try a small patch where you can’t see it first do you can figure out exactly what you need, underneath the grip panels is ideal for this, or on a semi auto you have lots of trial space inside the gun which is easily accessible. I have always used Bisley gun oil for this (no I have no affiliation with Bisley, it’s just the brand I have always used, but other brands will be just as good and possibly better), but you do need to be aware that some rubbers don’t like gun oil and it can cause them to perish, although this would be a very minor concern on realistic type guns but more of a worry on things like airsoft where they have seals etc.
Anyone who has one of the plastic heavy weight model revolvers probably understand exactly what I mean about the finishes as they have a flat black metal insert for the top strap which does a fantastic job at replicating the finishes.
I hope that helps anyone else who is planning to blue, it’s not as hard as you may think, 90% of it is in the first stage of polishing, as if you don’t do a good job at that then it will show up more when you blue.

Many thanks for the advice, all advice very much appreciated on this subject. I did use the Gel the biggest problem is the gun was chrome so getting the bluing to stick i always thought would be a problem. i will come back to this one and have another go as i have a python i would like to blue as well

Spencer-man,

I read your description of the Smith & Wesson coloring and laughed, like "...another Englishman thinks he knows guns from reading gun-magazines..."
I have three S&W revolvers here in my small collection (Model 19, Model 29 and a Model 629), and your description is absolutely dead-on, well done.
I hadn't noticed the trigger and hammer difference in blue/shade on the Model 19 until looking closely.

This is the only pic I have on Imgr - The 629 at top and 19 below it. The lower revolver is a Colt Diamondback.

I used to own an 8” model 29 among many others prior to our stupid gun ban in 1997. Not showing my age though!

Over many years, I have been trying to find a cold blueing product which is compatible with Modelguns. I have finally found one which will work on metal with a high Zinc content. Phillips Gun Blue gel. I saw an online demonstration on a Reck PPK which was successful. I was fortunate to have a Gun & Tackle store near which stocked the product. Even better, it was £5.99!!
I attach a few pictures of a MGC Navy Luger that I am currently working on. Any and all comments greatly appreciated.

Cracking job.

Did you still have to take the Gold finish off first?

Thank you! This model was coated in a thin layer of the original black paint. Fortunately it wasn't the gold version as removing that seems to be quite difficult. I forgot to add that the Phillips Gel I used requires only a rinse and a thin coat of oil. No polishing with wire wool as other brands suggest.