Replacement Hudson M1A1 Extractor

Sadly, my "new" Hudson Thompson M1A1 arrived with a broken claw on its extractor!
It about a week after it had arrived before I realised that - having been busy with other things!
I intended to get a steel bolt made in the future, complete with new extractor, so I decided in the meantime that I'd take the first available opportunity to have a go a making my own extractor out of mild steel plate; then case harden it by oil quenching.

Knowing nothing about case-hardening at first was an challenge - but after reading numerous internet articles about how to increase the carbon content of mild steel by first heating it to a cheery-red colour, and quenching in a high carbon environment (such as car oil) - I thought I'd give it a try!
Using the broken extractor as a template I scribed its outline on a piece of mild steel plate scrap I had in my workshop.
Every dimension was cut out oversized by 2.0mm -3.0 mm with a hacksaw by hand; then it was hand filed until the width and profile was correct - except for each end; these were left about 3.00 mm too long.
That allowed for fitting - especially the claw end. As the original was missing, I used photos from this forum and a PFC cartridge to get the dimensions good enough to work.

The photos tell the story.

The problem:

1.Measuring


2. Initial fitting and checking

3. Heating to a cherry-red colour (and maintaining the heat for a wee while - to allow all the steel molecule to re-align)


4. Quenching in Car Oil

5. After cooling down in the oil


6. Final installation

Don't know how long it will last but - it works fine at present.
It uses the old type of pin to hold the extractor in place - and you can see it's already bent! I'll replace it with a stainless steel pin in due course.
But at least it works for now, and I learned many things - and had a heap of FUN!!!


Kiwigunner

Great effect! I'm jealous of people who can make physical things :-)

Respect..

Nice work,

I had the same problem on my first Hudson Thompson many years ago and on the later ones I think they changed to stainless steel ones.

I've made a few extractors in the past and I settled with using tool O1 or D2 steel which I’ve left as is without hear treating. Not looked into adding carbon to mild steel as high carbon steel is readily available in the UK (ebay). I have oil blacked using a similar system to you but not heating it to cherry red and using used (non detergent) classic motor oil which leaves a great finish (like your one) and it's rust resistant

One thing to check is that when quenching metal (in oil or water) is that it's not too brittle as depending on the carbon content it can end up like glass

A great material for the pin is thick piano wire which should be available from most modelling shops.

8Ace

Thanks for the comments guys!

Smootik & Metradio: I'm just a newbee to modelguns, but with an acquired Kiwi attitude of fixing things with whatever is handy, I've learned not to be afraid to try my hand at anything! It's something I've developed since emigrating to New Zealand as a young boy!
Over the years I've got myself into trouble through my initial lack of knowledge! But usually it's been worth it for the lessons gained!
I hope I help inspire you (and others) to "push boundaries" in your areas of interest (which may not necessarily be metal-working)!
Modelgun problems seem to go with modelguns....and I (like many others here) love try to figure out ways to do things and share my experience thru this forum.

On this forum I have found so many helpful and knowledgeable people and sources of inspiration....I just love this place!

8Ace: Thank you for sharing your information & experience! I shall certainly look at getting some piano wire for a pin! Much appreciate the suggestion.
I did read on the net about the brittleness issues...so I "wait with baited breath" to see how long my handi-work survives! Did the original extractor claw break for the same reason, I wonder?

Just this evening I spent a bit of time re-staining the wood pistol grip on the Hudson; I've replaced the stock with a real one, so I re-shaped the grip and stained it to match.I managed to get an original WW2 Kerr-sling last month (after Cerwyn won my repro sling as a prize).
In spite of the Hudson's short-comings, I think it is one helluva good looking modelgun!

Kiwigunner

Another nice example of DIY engineering at its best:D Lovely bit of work Kiwi


Hudson's M1A1 Thompson is a beautiful model without doubt. 8ace fitted genuine Thompson woodwork to his and transformed it into a model that looks RIGHT. The darker coloured wood looks far better than the light tan almost yellow wood Hudson used.

With some tweaking, the Hudson can be made to fire PFCs consistently and reliably too. One of my all time favourites

Maybe you could share your tips on staining wood to improve looks and finish too please

Ok Cerwyn! Good idea!
I made the post here:
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t1329-real-thompson-woodwork-fitted


Kiwigunner