Beretta M1934 - What options do we have?

I fell for Beretta's design beauty lately and i'm trying to have my Beretta models timeline.
Of course I need a 1934 in my collection. After some serious googling, all I came up with were the Y.T.Corp model and the MGC's.
None of them are accurate enough to satisfy my need of details, plus, Y.T. Corp brand seems to have a very random quality control.
Anyways, before I pull the trigger on one of these - so to speak - I'd like to know if there's any other option out there.

Thanks for your priceless knowledge.

There is not that many options.
Back in old times MGC, CMC and Hudson made metal models, all very similar to each other:
http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yon-yon/cgi/mgc/beretta34/index.html
http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yon-yon/cgi/cmc/beretta/index.html
http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yon-yon/cgi/hudson/beretta34/index.html

Of those I only handled MGC (RMI) so far and it is just lovely, with great details and quality:
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t2657-mgc-rmi-beretta-1934-metal

WaShan (Y.T.Corp) is a nice "beater". Quality is very different, and this is not
a model that amazes with details. It is solid though, hefty, and handles well.

In a month or so I might be able to give you an opinion on Hudson.

Western Arms also produced a plastic (ABS) model, which could be an option, maybe someone else has seen it firsthand.


If you have any specific questions about MGC or WaShan versions - let me know.

Thanks for your input Smootik!
Actually I have a question about the WaShan (as your superb post about the MGC answers to all my questions about it!) and more questions to come about the other brands option.
But for now, do you know if original grips fit the WaShan? I'm also worried about what has to be modified etc..

Original grips, or at least grips I have, do not fit WaShan directly.

In case of MGC it is hammer pin protruding from frame into the panels that is the first area of concern. MGC grips have holes there, but even with those holes my panels are all cracked up in this area due to stress buildup (hammer pin shifts left/right).

For WaShan hammer pin is flush with frame, but... below left panel they used another pin which is one side inside frame, other side inside panel. WaShan panels have a special large hole there to fix it correctly in place. You would need to add that to the left panel.
On the other side I expected this to work better than MGC, but got surprised again! WaShan made two protruding surfaces (one near bottom, one near slide) that don't seem to serve any purpose except increase weight. Again, panels need to have holes made to accomodate for that.

Both for MGC and WaShan grips would also need another cutout in the left panel to allow trigger bar to move when trigger is pressed. Apparently real gun has this done differently enough.

I have not decided to make modifications on my grips yet, as there is not much excess material and I do not feel good enough with tools to risk those grips. If I find cheap ones, I will practice.

There is no good sun lately, so photos would be pretty duh, but I will try to post some for you. Ping me please if I don't do it in the next few days.

Thanks again Smootik! Very informative again! I decided to give the WaShan a go. But I will still enjoy your pics, of course.

There you go :-) Just comparison shots with flash, I will take better pictures for a review when there is sun - much much better than artificial light.

Left: WaShan, right: MGC. Note different screw mounting, correct on MGC model.




Inside view of the grips:
- WaShan, note large round hole near top left for mechanism pin,
- MGC, note tiny round hole at top left, and cracks,
- original, note dark areas where MGC hammer pin would go (top left) and trigger bar (top right)




Mechanism details. Large part is trigger bar.




WaShan mechanism details. Note pin removed from the frame - the large head has to go inside grip panel, in circular hole.




Right side of WaShan frame. Note raised surface that prevents original grip panels from fitting correctly.

Wo-wo-wow!! Your answers are PRICELESS Smootik! Thanks so much!
According to the photos, the WaShan mecanism is pretty close to the original!


Is there still a chance to fit the wood grips on the WaShan? (my dremel is my best friend)
Besides, where did you get your grips?
Any chance to see how the right side grips are looking like? (sorry, but your posts give me fuel )

Side note: your pictures are just perfect for this purpose. Just saying.

I got grips from one of members about 4 years ago, together with other items.
No idea where you can get them on internet, sorry.

No problem with photos, I will take some more for you. Let me know if you are interested in something particular. I'm glad it's useful and I can help :-)

It should be possible quite easy to modify wooden grips for the model, I think. If you have some experience, good measures, then it should be pretty straightforward. Holes for pins (MGC and WaShan) seem to be the easiest. Right side space for raised frame surface should be ok if there is enough wood on panel - I did not measure it. More work is needed to allow trigger bar move without problem, I think, as it is very close to edge of panel, and only thin strip of wood would remain. This is required modification to get working model, and one I was actually reluctant to make.

I think now that raised surface on right side is to stop grip panel from shifting - it is held by a single screw only.

WaShan is a nice model and handles well. Low points would be detailing of markings (not nice, bad stamping/engraving) and also matte painted metal, not shiny oxydized surface like real gun or MGC. If you saw other WaShan models, you know what to expect. Also mechanism is more stiff than MGC, I think painted slide/frame surfaces make friction.

Well, I would like to see the same pic you did for the left side grips but with the right side one if it's not too much asked.
Each one of your post helps a lot!
I know what you mean about WaShan paint! I wonder if it strips as easy as Kokusai gold plating. Might wanna try some polishing & blueing in the future. I have a friend who builds guitars, and I'm still trying to convince him to do me some grips. But we could definitely use some skilled hand nearby!

Splendid thread - great job Smootik.

Grips, left to right:

• WaShan: note indentation at top and bottom of the left edge. Raised part of frame enters those holes. There is also stabilising element in middle of left edge, and two "dots" middle top and middle bottom for correspoding holes in frame. A lot of stabilisation there!
  
• MGC: stabilising element is "square-ish" shape below and to the left of the screw hole. It is raised above the panel, and it enters corresponding hole in frame. Top right corner is broken off where hammer pin stressed it too much.
  
• real: no similar provisions.
  

Below photo of frames, left WaShan, right MGC.

Thanks!!!

Great Info:

Next
Smootik said

Quote :

"In a month or so I might be able to give you an opinion on Hudson."

I love the hint  
Sooooo Sorry   
Next on my list PROMISE !!!
will email tomorrow !!!

Received my WaShan M1934! It's a lovely little piece of metal! But yeah, the paint is crappy (but still better than Denix) and the grips are somewhat toyish.
Any advice before I momocampoish* the finish?
(*sand and polish)

I tried to polish the matte paint with Autosol this morning. The result is surprisingly pleasant to me!

I don't feel the need to do anything else!

looks good, i take it you very lightly polished

Why didn't I think of that?
Nice find!

It's probably too simple (and I'm simpleminded ) to think of it. I didn't force but didn't hold the polish. works dam well! I'll polish more areas and post pics asap.

Here we go!


Black painted WaShan + Autosol: easy win.
(I also used some Ballistol blueing liquid to darken the scratches.)

Coming back to my promise :-)

Hudson 1934 is overall very similar to MGC version, but finish quality seems a bit lower. Surface is not as uniform, there are some uneven areas and some visible remains of machining process (round pits and raised edges). My piece looks less finished than photos on the web (link below), so maybe this is a later production example.
http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yon-yon/cgi/hudson/beretta34/index.html

I will update measurements and take photos when there is sunny weather and some time for that.