This review is dedicated to memory of people who died in a crash of Polish President airplane in Smolensk.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_Polish_Air_Force_Tu-154_crashHistoryParabellum 1908, or Luger (from the name of its inventor, Georg Luger), is a pistol than many people recognize. It entered production in 1900 and served numerouse German soldiers in WWI and WWII. Originally chambered in 7.65, since 1902 it was manufactured in 9x19mm, cartridge most widely used in the world. Feature that makes it so distinct is a toggle lock.
Wikipedia information about Luger P08:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luger_P08_pistolMore information:
http://world.guns.ru/handguns/hg67-e.htmList of metal P08 modelguns (in Japanese):
http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yon-yon/cgi/test3.cgi?Input2=LugerTwo other pages about P08 in Japanese:
http://homepage3.nifty.com/nkoinuma/Luger.htmhttp://web3.incl.ne.jp/shiraaya/mgc-luger-p08.htmModelgunLuger P08 is fairly popular due to it's prominence in WWII movies. Several modelgun manufacturers have released P08 modelguns. MGC released a metal paper-firer first, then ABS cap-firing model, Nakata a metal Tanio Action (trigger mechanically moves slide) version, CMC a metal one (unknown mechanism) and later Marushin another metal version - dummy.
I like P08 for many reasons: unique toggle mechanism, ergonomic pistol grip, shape of the bottom of the magazine, ubiquity in war movies. After some time I decided to get an MGC model, ABS version. Mechanism is different from the real one, but it can fire cartridges. It has been produced in at least two versions, one with open-type cartridges (BLK), and a later one with CP carts.
BoxBox that I have is mostly black, with a silhouette of a soldier firing a P08 on top. Sides have various text: "BLK Parabellum PISTOL-08", "Patented blowback plastics modelgun", "08/BLK" and "Model guns & accessoris MGC BONDSHOP".
Inside there is a thin plastic cutout (nowadays it's styrofoam or paper) with a modelgun (including inserted magazine), box of cartridges, take down tool, detonator pin unscrewing tool, and probably a box of caps - there is space, but no content in my box.
Almost forgot - there is also a four-page instruction leaflet, with usage instructions, takedown sequence, exploded diagram and a list of accessories:" 'Dress up' your Luger" with one of three holsters, a silencer, two types of wooden stocks, wooden grips and a tool to help load magazine with cartridges (?)
MGC P08 is not produced since 1980s :-(
ModelgunModelgun is fairly light. It weighs only about half a kilogram. Loading a full magazine helps to make it a bit heavier.
Outside is made of black, shiny ABS. There are several marks, mine has them filled in white paint.
Left side of the barrel is marked with a symbol and a "G" letter. Further to the back there is "76823 Tk" serial number. The last two digits of the number are repeated in other places (six in total, I think). Right side has several marks with crowns over letters "B", "Z" and "N". These are explained in instruction, in Japanese of course. There is also an MGC crown on top of the toggle, but it's not painted.
Takedown lever is a dummy, you can't rotate it. Takedown is different from a real gun. Trigger is a trigger, inside it's guard ;-) with a magazine release button just behind it on the left side (the usual place). Near the back of the slide, also on the left, there is a safety lever - push forward to fire, push backward to see "Gesichert" (secured) word and stop model from firing. When safety is engaged you can still push the trigger, but it will not release the hammer.
The right side is just plain.
Grips are brown and plastic. Wooden ones were available as an option.
Top of the model is occupied by the famous toggle lock. Front part of it is made of metal.
There are classic sights in expected places.
At the back you can also find an attachment for a leash.
MagazineMagazine is quite thin. It's made of steel, and has a tendency to rust.
A feature that I like a lot is the bottom of the magazine, not flat like most of the magazines, but with a cool looking... feature :-)
Capacity: 7 cartridges. Another one could go in the chamber.
CartridgesMGC ABS P08 was initially released with BLK (open) type cartridges, and appropriate firing pin. There are 12 cartridges per "Small Cal,/BLK" marked box. Cartridge design is simple - they are open type, with a small plunger at the bottom and a hole through, so you can push out used caps.
Later MGC released version with CP-BLK cartridges. To us them you just need to change the firing pin. CP cartriges look like a miniature copy of their .45 cartridges, with a typical MGC design: bottom part with a plunger, top part that screws together with the bottom part, and a plug with a pin that goes inside bottom part, on top of the cartridge.
Cartridges are fairly small, so they use 5mm caps.
These pictures show open type cartridges (BLK) on the left, and CP cartridges on the right. All internal parts are shown next to cartridges, so you can see how they go inside. The last one shows a loaded cart.
FiringLoad cap into cartridges, load cartridges into mag. You need to hold mag follower down, using a small element that protrudes from the side of a mag. Insert magazine into the grip.
Rack the ... uhm, toggle :-)
This takes some using to, but you should find a comfortable hold. Some people prefer to grab it with thumb and index finger, some with index and middle fingers. I find it easiest to keep pistol in my right hand and thumb-index toggle with the left one.
Toggle moves in two steps that you can feel. First it clears the top of the magazine (smooth/easy move), then move gets more difficult as hammer is cocked.
Toggle mechanism makes it more natural to just release the toggle and let it load the cartridge. This is different to pistols, where many people push the slide back instead of letting it go back by itself.
P08 is single action only. Hammer is internal and can only be set by the toggle. There is no provision for releasing hammer without firing.
Shooting is great :-)
Just as many MGC models, blowback is crisp, at least in CP version that I checked. It's not as loud as a 1911, of course.
Used cartridges fly out to the top, so take care!
Toggle should lock up after the last cartridge, but it falls back down after you remove the magazine. Not sure if this is by design, but there does not seem to be anything to hold the toggle locked, except for the mag. To remove the mag you might need to pull the toggle a bit back, otherwise mag is held in place by the toggle.
After shooting remember to clean replica and cartridges.
I noticed that P08 vents much more smoke/sparks from the barrel than other models. This was even more visible when using Marushin caps in a dark room. Quick check revealed that my P08 does not have a metal tab in the barrel! Apart from the firing pin and metal bracket holding it in place there is no other blockage. This is the first time I've seen such a model, it's probably a design dating before some law took effect.
ProblemsNo modelgun is without problems, but P08 is a pretty solid construction, like many MGC models.
It's made of ABS, so the model is quite sturdy and should not crack when firing. Shiny surface will get scratches if you are not careful though. Area near chamber is prone to dings when cartridges get stuck instead of ejected, as is typical for modelguns.
Cartridges need to be well maintained. If the o-ring is damaged, there will not be enough blowback to correctly cycle the model.
In my P08 the hammer was moving with a bit of friction, and suspected that it might influence the performance. After complete disassembly I found that the main spring interferes with grip insides. That did not look right. Upon closer inspection I discovered that the spring is not symmetrical. It was on purpose - if correctly installed this actually helps spring to compress easily. Mine has shifted, and that has caused excessive friction.
Basic disassemblyDisassembly process is a bit complicated.
- remove magazine
- make sure chamber is empty
- unscrew both grips, note that small metal tabs will fall out - these are what screws get into, not frame
- unscrew the takedown lever - there is a screw on the right side
- remove takedown lever to the left
- under the right grip, remove c-clip from safety lever (use screwdriver)
- remove safety lever from the left side. Careful! there is a small, spring-loaded bearing ball, right under the top of safety.
Now you should be able to separate top part from the bottom part.
Screwdriver on photos serves as a pointer to screws and other elements. It's not used for actual unscrewing - included tool works pretty good as it has wider blade.
Top part can be further disassembled to get to the chamber and firing pin in order to clean it.
- unscrew two screws that hold back of the toggle
- remove one end of the spring from its place using screwdriver, put it inside the top part so it rests on toggle itself, not the top part
- slightly bend top ends apart and slide the whole toggle assembly to the back. Take care - bottom bar will probably fall out, if it hasn't already
- remove bottom plate - it is not attached to the rest of the toggle
You could now completely disassemble the toggle if you want to. Just remember where each part should go when you put it back together ;-)
- remove the pin at the back, just push it out from the spring. Spring will stay in place. This pin falls out by itself, that's why it is better to just remove and store it.
- remove the front pin between the metal part (bolt) and the rest of the toggle
- if needed (for cleaning), remove pin that holds extractor claw to the metal bolt
Take a look at the bolt face and bottm - you can see where the metal starts to show fatigue.
Now you have access to the firing pin.
If you have original BLK pin, it is square-shaped and you can use special tool to screw it out of the chamber.
To unscrew a newer CP pin you need a long and thin screwdriver - it is round and has a slot for a screwdriver.
Interesting thing that I found while disassembling is that the top part of the modelgun has a metal frame, covered by plastic parts. It looks like it might be possible to separate plastic (outer barrel) from metal (chamber and bars along the sides), but screws are hidden under plastic and there does not seem to be a way to do that without damaging the model. That metal frame gives in to rust, as it cannot be easily cleaned.
Further disassemblyBottom part disassembly (only if you must):
- inspect spring that is under left grip. Inspect again, remember how and where it goes.
- remove that spring
- remove trigger bar (it will probably just fall out when you remove the spring)
- unscrew two screws under the left grip near back side
- pull up hammer assembly, taking note how leash attachment moves out of the slot at the back
It should be easy now to find out how to separate hammer assembly in separate pieces.
Make sure the main spring does not spring out.
Note how the main spring has an assymetrical coil at the hammer end.
When putting it back, spring should be rotated so it won't bulge to a side.
With hammer assembly out, take note how the mechanism works - see below for a photo of a cocked/uncocked hammer, as well as a side view showing how spring bulges out. There is also another picture trying to show that one end of a spring is assymetrical. Experiment with the position to see how it works best for you.
AssemblyIt is more difficult to put it all back together due to springs and other parts just falling from their places.
Take your time, work slowly, consult instructions, ask for help on the forum :-)
A few hints:
- when putting hammer assembly back in place make sure that leash attachment goes through its hole. If not careful, it will stay outside and you will have to unscrew everything again before fitting the top part to the bottom part.
- note how the trigger spring should go back. It is quite tricky, and there is plenty opportunities to scratch model or launch the spring far, far and away.
- be careful not to loose bearing ball for safety lever. For me the best procedure is to put ball in the top hole, put safety lever in its place, holding lever firmly to the slide (to not lose ball) flip model over and push c-clip back in place..
- when reassembling grips, put tab inside the grip and hold it with finger while you try to put back the screw. Repeat on the other side.
OverallMGC ABS P08 is a lovely modelgun. It looks good, feels great and fires even better.
It is yet another superb model that I can recommend for a modelgun fan :-)
Edits: adding more and more photos, corrections 
Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:24 pm
