Refurbishing a M2 Paratrooper Carbine

I guess, given its age (born 1977) and buying a CMC Paratrooper m2 Carbine on the local auction site,I would probably have some things to fix.
As there's -plenty of info on how to re-blue and re-paint modelguns on this forum, I won't bore you all with details so the photos can talk for me.

There were some bits missing, and one repair to the stock already made and the M2 trigger group is missing the interrupter and selector bar/lever - so that's going to be part 3.
This is PART ONE:
rust removed AND re-blued.

PART TWO will be the repainting photos; and PART THREE will be about parts replaced, bought or home made.

ARRIVAL:
[

THE RUSTY BITS:




c) extractor spring

d) interrupter

e)selector lever/bar

As I work through the list I'll update progress, and hope it might assist other Carbine refurbishers!

Today I found time to clean & re-blue a few things:
1) the bolt (sanded below; re-blued at top)



2) barrel bands top and bottom - upper stock hinge cover plate and bolt finished


barrel bands re-installed



I'll start painting the folding stock next!

KIWIGUNNER

Very nice Kiwi.
I actually don't mind the look of worn guns sometimes, but that bluing you do certainly does look good.

By the looks of things this carbine has been modified to look like a WWII issue M1A1..
After WW11 (or very late in war) M1's were upgraded with the bayonet fitting, later rear sight and later safety catch.
Yours has the later sight and safety catch also it looks like the bayonet fitting has been cut down to just a WW11 barrel band.
If your carbine started life as an M2 the selector switch and spring might have been removed (and the spring lost) to give it the M1 look..

Mike

Mike:
Ah ha, that explains the missing bayonet fitting.
I'm just glad the modifier didn't alter the rear sight (though it is sloppy and removal may have been attempted) and didn't remove the selector switch. At least I might be able to repair it all again.
I've ordered a new barrel bank + bayonet fitting from the US. Getting it on may involve a bit of work as I don't believe the front sight is removable. In which case I think by removing and later replacing the bayonet lug rivets the barrel band can be installed over the barrel first.
The hammer is an M2 type but the sear looks like an M1.... but I won't know for sure until I pull the trigger group to pieces.

Ozguns:
I also like the weathered look on some of my guns....particularly the newer models1 and getting the ABS ones to look like aged metal is an art in itself for some members.
I guess I feel the older metal models need looking after, as they will continue to deteriorate anyway. That alone means lots of work; but I also love to tinker to make things work again (an addiction, I know ) But for me that's part of my love for modelguns
I'm a sad case!

Kiwigunner

kiwigunner wrote:

Mike:
...I've ordered a new barrel bank + bayonet fitting from the US. Getting it on may involve a bit of work as I don't believe the front sight is removable...

On the real steel M1 carbine the front sight is secured by a lateral fitting pin..
There are a number of inexpensive books on the market written about the M1 family covering both history and technical details..

Mike

Hi Metradio: the front sight appears to be part of the barrel casting; a join half-way down the length of the barrel suggests to me that was how the original one was installed, and the internal barrel blocking bar was inserted at the same time, before welding?
Maybe someone in the Forum can verify that idea (or not)?
Anyway the new fitting is due here in about a week or so, ready to be fitted somehow!

Over the last few days the refurbish process is going well, with the bluing 90% complete and the parts I wish to re-paint have been primed with etching primer paint. The black paint goes on in about 10 days when the primer is sufficiently dry.
Here's the photos of work so far completed.

For sanding I used various grit sand-paper & steel wool leaving the surface not totally smooth to allow the paint to adhere better.
I used s Dremmel and wire -brush to get into the small places!

SANDED, PRIMED AND READY TO TOP COAT:


SANDED & RE-BLUED
THE OPERATING ROD (OR SLIDE) CAME UP QUITE NICELY


OF COURSE THE DETONATOR PIN WAS A CHALLENGE TO REMOVE - BUT THE SECRET WAS TO USE A SHORT STUBBY SCREWDRIVER INSERTED IN THE CHAMBER MOUTH AFTER USING A CHEMICAL METAL LOOSENER.


AND THE CLEANED AND RE-BLUED PIN READY TO RE-INSTALL

Hopefully my next post will be in a week or so when the primer has dried and the bayonet fitting is here and I can re-install it all and sit and admire the fine craftsmanship of the CMC company.....which may well be ultimately attributable to the Shoei family! Eh Smootik?
(see: https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t1969-shoei )

Kwiwgunner

Hi Kiwigunner

Great stuff!!
I have lots of comments / questions to come but trying to find the time at the moment to take some pics of mine to compare. Mine is different to yours in a few ways??? so will highlight those.
Can you if possible take a picture of the back of the bolt? and inside of the reciver? and describe your ejector?
I will also get you those dimentions:)

Many thanks
john

Thanks JohnnyV. I look forward to your posts!

Here's some photos which I hope will provide the information you requested.
Let me know if you need more!


Assuming I haven't got the terms "extractor" & "ejector" confused ( ejector to me means the thing that helps un-load the cartridges, and the extractor pulls out the empty cases after firing):
The extractor spring is missing at the moment, but will be pelaced today with one I'll make; the ejector is just basically an "L"-shaped piece of steel that slots into the receiver left side. It is held securely by the trigger group and the wooden stock.

If I've got it wrong then I'll have to redo a few photos!!!

Kiwigunner

The weather here in Auckland finally changed from being continuously damp wet and windy to the first fine days of Spring and allowing me to paint the top coats of Satin black on the M1 barrel and folding stock.

A new Oiler was purchased to replace the one missing; the missing extractor spring assembly was re-made https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t3111-cmc-m1-carbine-extractor-repair
I'm still waiting for the ordered M2 parts to arrive from overseas, so decided to put the Carbine back together - I couldn't wait!

Again the photos speak for themselves..... and while some members prefer a "weathered" look to their modelguns, I prefer to get mine looking like new. After 40 years of service I think the older modelguns deserve a new lease on life!
Hope you will enjoy seeing the transformations shown on this post, and the final rejuvenated CMC M1 Carbine!

Maybe it will inspire other members in the Northern hemisphere to do some winter projects?
I found the effort worthwhile, and as always, learned heaps about the real guns as well as the replica!


When the parts arrive, the M2 Conversion will be the next challenge!


Ka-kite!

Kiwigunner

Simply impressive Kiwi !

Lovely :-)

Thanks Jim & Smootik.

The CMC Models in general are of high quality and worth preserving -now this rare model i believe will last another 40 years maybe
Unlike some of us older fellers

Kiwigunner

PS Today at a local (real) gun show, I was offered a real M1 Paratrooper WW2 rifle of NZ$2000!
Dammit - there goes my budget again .... if I say 'yes'!!

Judging by the clip I reckon your Paratrooper is the later version with more realistic rotary bolt - earlier verison's straight blow-back bolt & open rounds that might have better firing performance...

Funny you should raise that point, Jim.
I've been corresponding Shazhib about that, I was given a real steel M1 Carbine clip - and it won't fit!
My M1 bolt is non-rotating as well, so I guess it's the early version you described.

Here's a photo he sent me of the two types of magazines, and a comparison with mine.

I think I can modify the mag well housing with a Dremmel and cut two fine grooves to accept a real mag. I might also have to modify the magazine catch. But it might be useful to be able to accept both magazines.

Today the M1 real bayonet fitting arrived from America, and my next challenge is to find a way of installing it, as I can't see how to remove the barrel (the fore sight is cast as part of the CMC barrel). The diameter is about 1.5mm wider than the CMC barrel diameter too!

How does your M1 Carbine barrel come apart?

Kiwigunner

So Kiwi your's actually is the earlier version - my mistake ...

My story: at first I got the later version M1 Carbine supplied with 15rd mag, then later I felt the need of a long mag so I bought one without realising it was the one for the older version (with slot on both sides therefore incompatible) - so I ended up buying another Carbine earlier version (although slightly pricey but in brand-new condition though)...

I've never dealt with the barrel - so ...

I'll work out something!

I just "love" M1 Carbines: particularly the Paratrooper version.

Kiwigunner

When you sanded down the receiver, did you leave the insides or did you sand only the immediate internal areas you could get to? I've completely stripped my CMC M1 Carbine down and have almost finished sanding most surface areas but not sure if it's worth while trying to sand the internal areas.

Hiya Stumpy-ned,

I stripped the whole thing down and clean every individual part; most internals did not need sanding as the bluing was in excellent condition. The chamber area was corroded, but I clean and sanded and re-blued that area.
I am still making the parts to make it a fully functional M2 carbine replica; fiddly job that is planned for this NZ winter.

I painted the barrel, but am thinking of removing the paint and bluing it instead.

Good luck with your project. Post some photos when you can!

Kiwigunner

The resprayed barrel looks quite good. I can't see any difference in colour between the resprayed barrel and the other blued parts. What colour spray did you use for the barrel? And did you use a particular brand of cold bluing?

I used Birchwood Casey Blue paste for bluing - several applications with a wash in Meths in between applications;
painted using a black semi-gloss (satin) spray paint after sanding and priming with a grey metal primer paint.

Will probably strip the paint on the barrel and blue it with the paste sometime this winter.

Kiwigunner

Me again. Did you do anything with your M1 butt plate? Mine is pretty mancky but can't seem to find out what colour it should be. I'm in two minds to either remove existing colour and just respray black or cold blue it with some left over Birchwood.

I carefully sanded, and sprayed with a grey primer paint then gave it 3-4 coats of satin black paint. Seems to work ok and handle use.

kiwigunner

Absolutely riveting work and attention to detail Kiwi.

Many thanks for sharing mate..

Highest regards

MARK

Thanks Mark; I really do believe these replicas are worth the effort to maintain - they are becoming harder to find in ANY condition so if I manage to get any locally or overseas, I look after 'em!
Lots of fun too - ,and I learn heaps all the time - and this Forum is the greatest for sharing such things.

Cheers.
Kiwigunner