Marushin Enfield No2 Mk1 questions

I have stumbled up modelguns by accident. As a reenactor I am always looking for cheaper/safer alternatives to real firearms, especially when just doing a living history display for guest/visitors. My brother found Francky on gunbroker.com and purchased a MGC Thompson for $200. We then picked up a Marushin Hi-power.
I recently acquired a Marushin Enfield No2 Mk1 ABS version from a gunshow for $40.

Sad news is that the firing pin was cut and the cartridges(only had 5 ) were glued into the cylinder. The vendor told me this was a "turn-in" gun. Basically the owner would turn this into authorities versus a real firearm....
I removed the cartridges from the cylinder with little effort. These cartridges are unfamiliar to me, and would like a little info on them:

I bought some new cartridges from Francky, and am awaiting a new firing pin aswell.
The new cartidges actually fit in the cylnders better, and have a rimmed case so the extractor actually works.
As a WW2 British reenactor I even use the cartridges in my real Enfield No2 Mk1 as dummy cartridges.
Will the new cartidges work in what I am assuming is an older version Marushin?
As a side note the Marushin model is built so well to scale that parts from the Real Enfield can be interchanged.

Hi Stechele,
and welcome to the Forum. I'm a relative newbie too, so I can't say much to help you on your questions. But I do have the same model Marushin Enfield No2 Mk 1 HW ABS modelgun, which I built from a kitset. That price you paid was great! And Francky is an excellent person to get help and modelguns from - as well as parts and cartridges.
He helps many of us on a regular basis!

So I'm sure he, or someone on the Forum will be able to help. But I'm guessing you won't have any problems with the new cartridges, and it looks like the cartridges you already had may be from another gun completely. In fact they may even be dummy cartridges????
A photo taken looking into the hole in the nose fo the cartridge might clarify?

Someone here will be able to verify or prove me wrong pretty quickly!
Perhaps a photo of the hammer in a cocked position would be helpful too - as this model should allow cocking, whereas the No2 Mk1* (star) model had a spur-less hammer (as you obviously know) and was designed to be double-action only.

I didn't know parts were inter-changeable, so thanks for that info.

Here's a photo of my version (and wooden grips is on the list of improvements to do):


AND THE FIRING PIN IN THE HAMMER

Hi And welcome to the forum

The lower rounds are not for the Enfield at all they are the dummy brass for the RMI ( MGC ) metal Lugers P.38s etc
Only ever made as dummies (load / eject ) and not designed to fire.

I dare say the previous oner bonded them in to prevent anyone realising they were incorrect.

Your Model Enfiled is the early ABS version , the later HW versions are perhaps a little more realisitic looking / feeling but the ABS one will be a lot more durable ( if you roll on it etc )

DOC

Thanks Kiwigunner and DOC for the information.
Although the glue residue left inside the cylinder does not hinder the correct cartridges, I would like to remove it.
I tried removing it manually but started scratching the cylinder walls. I know commercial super glue remover will ruin plastic.
Any suggestions?

Kiwigunner: You will need to do some modifications to the real grips to get them to fit on the Marushin.



the pin hole in the grips are slightly off, and there is some "meat" at the top of the real grips that will have to be removed.

Thanks likewise for the info and pictures of the wood grips Stechele. They're a great help. I might end up making some customs grips from scratch!

Re the super glue problem:
I would try this -
The diameter of the Enfield chambers is normally about 10mm (my micrometer measured my Enfield's 6 chambers as between 9.78 and 9.94 mm). If the super glue is all over the insides then I think a wooden dowel with some fine sandpaper glued to it that just fit the chamber would allow you to remove most of the glue. You may have to wipe the glue spots with something like Castrol Super Clean (or similar automotive degreaser) to make the super glue brittle and easily removed by sanding.

If the glue has left blobs or ridges, then I’ve heard CSC causes most super glues to become brittle and the easy to break. It can be used to strip the paint off plastic models without damaging the plastic.
However, I'd try a little on some test ABS material first!''

Once the ABS plastic is free of super glue, then you can use a SMALL amount of an abrasive metal polish like “Brasso” brass polish using a dowel with a cloth pad glued to it, instead of sandpaper, to polish the plastic smooth. And finish with a liberal coating of the appropriate Silicone oil.

It would mostly be a fiddly task, and take a lot of patience. Let me know if it works for you if you give it a go!

Update:
I have not tried to remove any of the super glue, yet.
My firing pin came in, loaded up the shells and only 2 fired the others had pin marks on the rims of the cartridge. It seems the cam is not aligning the cylinder properly. I might just shelf this one and pick up a newer heavy weight model.
Is there any way to ID when this particular model was made?