Question on modelgun surface finishes

Hi
A quick question as an interested in peoples view.

Over Christmas during some quiet time I was trying some new finishes, and it set me wondering what people REALLY like?....

a) a "brand new" look = standard matt Heavy weight finish
b) a "used" but more "real" finish

Its easy to make guesses, but i would like real opinions/views please, pristine new modelgun or custom look???
Below is one of the models (CAW .32 Auto) I was working on as an example, first two photos are straight out of the box, second two photos are after some elbow grease applied.
Honest opinions please:) (sorry I know pics could be better, but they give the idea)

Hi Johnny,

For me, it's the second the better. It's true the original ABS is always a little bit mat. I think there is a method to "blued" to look more "metal". Carom does this kind of product but I don't know how use it.

Cerwyn wrote:

...replicas should look no more than 4-5 years old. Blued steel on Real guns is a tough durable finish so wouldn't wear down too much in a few short years use...

Depends what period is being re-enacted, WWI and WWII small arms would typicaly only be 4-5 years old by the end of each war, but weapons used in Vietnam and Northern Ireland could be 20+ years old!! Also it would depend on the envirenment the weapon was used in, for instance a US M3 grease gun issued as part of a tank's equipment inventory might only have storage marks, as it would sit in a canvas holster for most of its life, yet a US M1 carbine used heavily by a Marine unit in the pacific might need refurbishment after only a few months.
Not all firearms have a blued finish, phosphate finishes became popular during WWII and the UK went for a black high temp paint finish for their L1A1 SLR (elephant gun) rifle.
Also non bullpup rifles issued to units that carried out a large proportion of ceremonial duties tended to get through rifle butplates at a rate of knots..

Humbrol do an enamel paint that looks like grey matt phosphate but is a bit too delicate if handled and goes a grey satin finish. The only solution to this that I can think of is to apply the paint, rub the high points to give a worn finish, then coat with a clear matt varnish to seal the finish..

Just had a thought, years ago I had to coat the insides of a few radio enclosures with electrically conductive spray paint, the finish looked like phosphate and was pretty hard wearing, I have not seen the stuff for years but am sure this is it:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/emi-or-rfi-shielding/7259987/

As an aside, if you have a 1:1 scale plastic kit of a .45 peacemaker or similar and want to make it into an aged wallhanger. Go to your local hardware store and buy a tube of GRATE POLISH, it should cost about 3 to 4UKP.
Grate Polish is used to polish black wrought iron items, it looks like black shoe polish but when buffed it has a metalic polished steel finish. I have applied it just using my finger, after first removing non steel finish parts - wood grips etc.
The polish comes with simple instructions on how to apply and to acheive a good finish. The down side of using it is that you cannot handle the gun very much after application or the finish comes off - on your hands ! The good side is you can experiment with the amount of polish applied, time left to dry and amount of elbow grease used to buff it up and as it is water soluble it can be washed off with warm soapy water. It is friendly when applied to plastics..

This is the stuff:

http://www.starchsupplies.co.uk/hotspot-black-graphite-grate-polish.html