comparison help! please M16A1

Hi All

How are you?

I am looking for an M16A1 for vietnam reenacting but I am somewhat confused as to which model is the better/more accurate. the MGC or the marushin. Please can someone shed some light (and hopefully photos) of the differences please?

all and any help gratefully appreciated.

Hello and welcome to forum!

Please check comparison of available models made by MadMike, our local expert on this type:
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t1467p15-mgc-m4-photo-gallery

Marushin and MGC variants also have their own sections with plenty of information:
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/f20-marushin-m16-xm177-series-modelguns
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/f40-mgc-m16-series-modelguns

I hope this is enough information to get you started :-)

Hello Rat, welcome to the forum

smootik's already given you links to a good deal of information which should help you at and give you an idea.

MGC's M16A1 was used by film and TV producers as a prop weapon for non-firing footage. One film of note is Full Metal Jacket, TV series' Tour of Duty made good use of them.
Outwardly, apart from the use of a socket head screw in place of a Forward Assist button, the MGC M16A1 looks as realistic as you'd want.
Internally, however, the firing mechanism differs considerably to the real gun.

Marushin's M16A1 replicates the internals more faithfully apart from necessary changes to allow PFC Cap Firing.

Madmike is indeed our resident expert on this weapon and its variants, he'll be looking forwards to helping you I'm sure as we all will

Hello!

Well, I am not around here a lot lately, so please apologize my late reply:

You can choose 4 different models:

1.) Early full metal (zinc) MGC M16, used as a non-firing prop gun in Full Metal Jacket, Tour of Duty and The A-Team. A sturdy model with realistic weight (3 kg) and feel. Anyway the internal firing mechanism, the "fake forward assist" Cerwyn mentioned and the fire selector (SAFE, SEMI and AUTO positions are intermixed) are not realistic. This model will need reworking to fire caps too. It still can be bought for a good price (350 – 500 USD)



2. Late MGC M16A1 ABS plastic model. A great, realistic replica that fires well using caps. It is still available for a reasonable price as a used mode (200 – 400 USD). Drawbacks are that it is quite light (2 kg) and that the ABS looks too shiny. If taken to the field often the long ABS barrel assemble may start to wobble.

3. Marushin M16A1 made of zinc, currently available as factory assembled (with odd greenish finish) or as kit version (black). (280 – 380 USD). Realistic weight and feel, but the bolt design is not as realistic as on the late MGC ABS model. Easily available. Needs a little reworking to fire reliable, anyway it will not be as good as the MGC ABS M16 when it comes to firing caps. There was a factory assembled version made in the early 1980s that came with a heavier bolt carrier and a rare 30 rd magazine (500 USD).



4. HobbyFix M16A1 dummy model, made from metal and as realistic as possible. Only made in very limited numbers in the early 1990s. Very rare and expensive today (approx. 1500 to 2000 USD). Will accept real magazines and can cycle dummy rounds manually, but it won't fire caps. It is at least as realistic as a deact M16.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for your replies folks. I had completely forgotten I had joined this forum etc.

I have ordered the Marushin M16a1 Kit as it seems to be the closest to what I was looking for.. Ie field stripped near enough to a real steel etc. I wasn't so fazed by it firing or not as I'm not a vietnam Battler! However I may be converted into a PFC firing fan!!

hope it does the job, will find out when it arrives tomjorrow

While waiting please take a look at assembly instructions (M16A1 is almost the same):
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t2897-marushin-xm177e2-kit-first-time-assembly

This kit is fairly frustrating to adjust to fire caps correctly, but for looks and handling it is well worth the money!

I have just been reading that thread, I am sure i'll be referring to it during the build.

Please can anyone give me an indication as to what tools are required for construction please?

I have used:
- a variety of screwdrivers, mostly tiny ones, to hold/push/help with smaller parts. Always use screwdriver best fitting a screw, otherwise it is easy to scratch or damage screw and nearby surfaces.
- pliers (and/or needle-nose pliers) to hold some of the parts while installing (useful also for tightening the barrel).
- hammer, to drive in those pesky pins.
- wooden plank, to put under model (and parts) while hammering various pins in/out (out because you will most likely forget something ;-) )
- sand paper to polish some of the surfaces, I used grade 600 to fine polish and rough one to adjust stock ring thickness (as per JohnnyV tip).
- (option) dremel-style rotary tool to help de-burring, polishing or doing smaller modifications. It is sometimes easier to do with a dremel, but it is also easier to make mistake or scratch something.

Additionally:
- paper and pen to mark identified parts (makes work easier later).
- containers to keep smaller parts from running away (they are very apt at doing that).
- silicon oil to use on moving parts (bolt/handle) at later assembly stages.
- towel to wipe your hands from oil and dirt (after sanding/polishing) to prevent moving it back onto model parts.
- desk lamp to provide extra light when you work in evenings.
- remember where you keep adhesive bandage, and bruise-reducing ointments - their usage depending on your skills and luck :-)

Please, do not get scared by size of this list :-)
I spent a lot of time running around my house and searching for things I forgot about ;-)

not too fazed by the list!! (he says!)

think I have a mjority of it anyways. not plasters though I have the heavy duty gunshot wound pressure bandges though, will they do?

Ain't no such thing as overkill, with them bandages ;-)

I wonder if anyone has been taken to A&E with a gun stuck to their hand by the bolt or something!!

Rat wrote:

I wonder if anyone has been taken to A&E with a gun stuck to their hand by the bolt or something!!

If it hasn't happened already, there's always a First time Let us know how things go please

Hi All

Just a quick update

I have predominantly finished the build BUT!!

the forward assist and charging handle are not complete due to some of the smaller linkin gparts dissapearing!!

I have had huge help from John (PFCGUK) and hopefully soon to be remedied.

however here are some pics to start off with.

Nice model :-) Among the "M" rifles this model is the one that looks best for me.

If you only have problem with those two parts, it's not much :-) Good to hear that your progress is so good.

Some of your pictures are out of focus - take a look at some hints collected in this thread:
https://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t741-taking-better-photographs

thanks will look when I've finished the build.

Can anyone tell me how to et the bolt to slide in? as it seems to be a tight fit. also I appear to have a small part left over which is believed to be the "stop" for the buffer tube so am a bit confused!!

thanks in advance.

Bolt should just go in the upper receiver. It might be a tight fit, and extra work to get it to move smoothly is probably required. This is what prevents these models from firing caps easily - they need quite some work on the bolt and receiver inside.

Not sure which leftover part you mean - please write number (see my review for details).
Is it D#75 used in step 09?

yeah number 75,though I already have a "stopper" in there it appears I have used the wrong one.

Hi Rat,

rubbing down all the casting lines, flash and high spots along the bolt's length, the bolt carrier and upper receiver bore till you get a perfectly smooth clean surface should help the bolt slide much easier.
These kits are sold with all the rough casting marks still there so plenty of time and effort polishing everything clean and smooth is essential.

There are a few hints and tips to be found here:-

Left over parts after a build are a worry, a bit like finding a left over circlip after an engine rebuild... triple check the manual again, then strip the model down bit by bit until you find where it should go...
As far as I know, there aren't any optional parts supplied in the Marushin M16 kit so it should fit in there somewhere...

Thanks Cerwyn, was rather hoping I wouldn't have to dissasemble the M16, but if it needs doing it needs doing!.

It is enough to unscrew buffer tube just a bit to remove buffer stop. Make sure the rear receiver locking mechanism (pin and its screw) don't jump out.

Try to identify what other part it might be. Maybe after all there are, by Marushin mistake, two same parts?

Times like this having a local "expert" would be great as I could call upon them to have a look lol.

have taken the buffer tube out as it was popping over its catch. so i guess i did use the wrong part.

That's one problem solved then ... all you need do now is identify where the wrong pin should have been fitted.
Fortunately the instruction manual lists all the pins giving full dimensions of each one so it should be fairly easy to figure out which one it is

Keep us posted please

Does anyone know of any MGC collectors/assemblers in or near worcester who'd be able to drop by and give me a hand please? banging head with confusion here!! will provide tea, biscuits and anything else required lol.

Hi Rat,

Hopefully there will be someone nearby that can give you a hand but if not, we'll do whatever we can to help you here
Photos, dimensions or anything you can post up should "ring a bell" with some of us here.
We've all got access to the Instruction Manual too as it's posted up in the forums' pages.

Believe me, we've ALL been there, confused and frustrated and in need of some help, so we're only too pleased to help.

Just out of interest: Could you use the lower and upper receiver of an GBB M16A1 on one of these?